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  1. Today
  2. It is a pneumatic impact chisel, the black pump motor pulses air thru the tube. The air pushes a small piston that taps on the back of the chisel holder. It is similar to the Lindsay Airgraver/GRS tools. The yellow tube on the left is just rubber fuel line for lawnmowers. I can change out the chisels for different cuts.
  3. Yesterday
  4. I found a paperback book on woodcarving when I was about 11; may have been a boy scout manual, things like totem poles and cross bows, heavy on pictures, light on text. Thought it looked like fun, never stopped, the book was lost in a house move shortly after I got it, wish I still had a copy.
  5. Hi Jim, When I asked "how does it work" I should have been more specific. Is this a rotary tool or an impact chisel sort of tool? Is this a flex shaft sort of connection to the base? Questions like that about what I cannot see from the image. I am glad that it works for you! Janel
  6. Both the engraver and the file resizer work fine :-) I've done some serious metal engraving with the setup.
  7. Last week
  8. I honestly can't remember not carving or making things. I grew up in the 60s where a kid with a pocket knife was normal. Carving, hammering on metal, cutting things up to make other things that I wanted more was how I survived childhood. In junior high school I learned about the technical school training that was available. I took Machine shop training, best choice of my life. I can make any tool I want now. Sometimes when I look at a stick, rock or piece of metal it tells me what it wants to be. Actually, that happens more often than not. Wood, stone, metal, whatever has a life all its own. There is something viscerally satisfying about taking a sharp chisel and slicing into wood, feeling the grain scritch and part from the blade. Same with metal, a chisel cutting into steel, hammering the sharp edge into a solid block and peeling a chip off like magic. Cool!
  9. I like the moonshine (?) pendant too. And the netsuke are cool, good work.
  10. Her is what it's useful for, a stand for a 32 carat quartz stone I faceted myself.
  11. Here is another view that shows the heart shaped rings better. Its one of those things you don't hand to everyone for fear they might crush it. Lots of work, all hand chisels and files.
  12. Here is one I made a few years ago. It is four interlinked mobius strip, heart shapes. Carved from a single piece of curly maple. A mobius strip is a twisted strip with only one side.
  13. Good carvings great art work. I also like the owl, and the Eagles head. Thanks for sharing ,,will be looking for more in the future.
  14. Nice work! I especially like the owl. I think anyone who has a problem with your English should understand how difficult it is to learn. I pretty much only speak American English, but I realize the effort and strength of will it takes to learn it as a second language. (or more...). I salute your accomplishments. As to laughter, I always say,; "If you can't laugh at yourself, you will miss all the best jokes." Jim
  15. Earlier
  16. Hi Jim, How does it work? Yes, the image size is fine. It could actually be a bit larger dimension: - 72 dpi - JPEG works great - around 640 x 480 pixel dimension - and around 50-100 kb file size (this info is found at or near the top of each forum area)
  17. I'm very impressed, good eye
  18. Additional notes I found on the web years ago. unfortunately I do not know of the source anymore. 1. 1 Stone Preparation - To begin making a piece of tufa cast jewelry you start by cutting a piece of tufa stone to the desired size that works best for your design. After the stone has been cut to size you must rub two sides of the stone together to create two sides that are perfectly flat and fit flush together. 2 Create of a Design. After the stone is ready for use, a design is sketched directly onto it. 3 Carve the Tufa Stone. The design is carved into the stone with hand chisel tools, wood files, sewing needles, paperclips and other tools. A dremel can be used for removing larger amounts of material. The carving must be done with perfection. Once a part of the stone is removed, it cannot be added back. The areas of negative space become the positive space where the silver fills in and forms the piece. Any mistake can render the stone as useless. You must add a sprue hole at the top of the rocks to allow the silver to be poured into the mold. It is also important that you carve air vents that go from the design all the way off the edge of the tufa stone. This will allow for air to escape as the silver is poured in. 4 Carbonize the Tufa Stone and Melt the Silver. It is essential to have the tufa stone carbonized before pouring the silver. This can be done with using just the gas of a torch without the oxygen. With the two parts of the stone covered in soot and bound with a piece of rubber or clamps add the correct amount of silver into a crucible and melt it with a torch to a molten state. Pouring only takes a moment, and if done correctly should fill the entire mold. 5 Sand and Clean the Cast Silver. The silver piece is removed from the mold and the extra silver in the sprue hole, not a part of the design, is cut from the piece. Sanding cleans and smooths the design, but the texture that is distinctive to tufa cast work is left where desired. This is the beauty of this form of casting. There may be smoothed sections that are created to provide contrast with the texture left by the tufa stone. Links that have been soldered together should also be individually sanded to make for a seamless link of silver. The piece can also be cleaned in a citric acid pickling solution to remove any fire scale caused when casting or soldering. 6 Polish. Polishing can be done with water and a rubber wheel or it can be done using polishing compounds. There is pre polishing compounds. Cut and finish compounds and final stage compounds. They can range from abrasive to non abrasive. 7 Complete the Work. The final stages of creating a one of a kind piece may include various methods in order to set stones, create unique forms through the melding of multiple tufa cast silver pieces, adding links to connect pieces, or implementing whatever other inspiration comes to mind. Sanding and polishing a piece can be very time consuming. Depending on the piece of jewelry it can be up to forty or fifty percent of the work.
  19. Tuffa mold notes From Del Orr, Orr's of Taos 6-26-2012 When using Tuffa molds pour 6 -10-12 of the casting then let cool, mold will last three sesions, pour one casting let mold cool and repeat, mold will still only last three sessions. Before casting brush mold with kerosene, then close and cast, provides reducing atmosphere. Be sure sprues are large enough, and that mold is well vented!!!!!
  20. You want the volcanic ash to use for tuffa casting. It is available form Indian Jewelers supply. I have not yet done any tuffa casting but an elderly gentleman I am acquainted with advised me to paint the mold with Kerosene before casting. He said I would get about ten uses out of the mold, and could make multiple casting every time I used the mold. I will look for the notes I took when I talked with him.
  21. Hey friends! I have just recently sat out into carving a cow skull. I have engraved a skull before and have tried to dabble with full blown carving but I am having trouble with the thickness of cow bone. Does anyone have any advice on how to make short work of the thick bone? How do I go about making fine lines? It seems like only my larger bits are able to cut all the way through the bone and they are not suitable for the intricate designs that I have planned out. I am using a dremel multipro 2 - speed with engraving bits (not sure what kind they are :/ ). Is my Dremel not powerful enough for the task at hand? Are there better bits to be using? A method to soften the bone? HELP PLEASSSSE!
  22. Thanks Janel, So here is a pic, resized to, I hope a correct size. The brass pieces are the handpiece bits, assembled and apart so you can see how simple they are. All told probably less than a couple hours of work. Did everything work out? Size wise?
  23. Hi Jim, Try this online resizer: http://webresizer.com/resizer/ Janel
  24. It is depend on the shape your piece.
  25. Fantastic work, very beautiful. You are a great inspiration to us.
  26. Thanks Janel, once I have time to figure out how to properly size files for pics I'll post some. Just to prove I could do it I also hooked up a salvaged pump to an old treadle sewing machine base. I can run my handpiece totally off foot power, for as long as my legs hold out. More work, but very steampunk looking.
  27. Hi Matt, Yes, a bench vise is useful when first sawing. I also was eventually convinced to purchase a band saw. It scares me, which is a good thing, but it also saves time and muscle fatigue when trying to cut a 4" diameter boxwood hunk into netsuke sized pieces. Rough on the blade, but it has been helpful. ALWAYS remember to keep your fingers away from the blade space. I have a zone that is about four inches on either side of the blade that has broad diagonal lines (marker needs re-doing at times) to remind me of the zone. I have a notched 1x2 length of wood that is used for pushing the wood, and I also have wood clamps when a piece needs to be grasped instead of just pushed through the cut. It takes planning but I still have all of my fingers intact. Janel
  28. Thank you Matt for linking to that video. It is an old one, my tools have evolved from that time. The thumb as fulcrum basic action is used with my newer tools as well.
  29. Hi JIm, I am constantly amazed at the ways that resourceful minds work when solving problems, such as the tool you created from a variety of parts that were not meant at first to work together! Well done, I must say. Janel
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