good finish for Macassar?
#1
Posted 04 April 2008 - 05:49 PM
Can anyone suggest a good way to finish Macassar ebony? Im still kinda noobish and dont have much experience with fine finishing techniques. I dont want a heavy thick coating of anything so i am thinking along the lines of an oil or wax. What would really bring out that warmth and character of the macassar? Specific types and properties would be very much appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Josh
#2
Posted 05 April 2008 - 12:41 AM
#3
Posted 05 April 2008 - 05:43 AM
I would assume this would work on black ebony as well - I've never used this technique - do you use a muslin wheel? What is the actual name of the white compound?
Best regards,
Magnus
"if not for the point, the still point, there would be no dance. And there is only the dance." T.S.Elliot
#4
Posted 05 April 2008 - 09:27 AM
I think the shine will last longer with a few coats of thinned oil (Thung- or Danish-) and I would sand to a finer grit (800 at least).
Buffing is only pushing the grain down till it closes, the white buffing compound (and the woodgrain) will react to moist from your hands.
Please show us what you made.
Greetings, Leon.
#5
Posted 05 April 2008 - 11:47 PM
Hi Leon. I usually don't get to that fine a grit (800) because it loads up the paper in about 2 passes,, but it will be a shinier finish.
#6
Posted 05 April 2008 - 11:56 PM
Attached image(s)
#7
Posted 06 April 2008 - 02:46 AM
I am cautious about using the polishing compounds on wood, fearing the color contrast residue that tends to be left behind. Also, don't the compounds have a wax or oil based binder in them, which would contribute in some way to what happen to the wood when being used?
I may have used Watco Danish Oil on the piece Wood & Moth http://www.janeljaco.../carvings/.html which is either Gabon or Macassar Ebony. It eventally stopped looking "oiled", but has a protecting finish, more or less. I have not wetted it to try it out though.
Please do try out your finishing options on a prepared surface of the same sort of wood, to learn about your options.
Janel
What you can do, or dream you can, begin it; Boldness has genius, power and magic in it. ~ Goethe ~
Janel Jacobson's web site
#8
Posted 06 April 2008 - 03:34 PM
I actually, sanded down to 800 then used micromesh 3600 grit and 12,000 grit. The macassar took a glassy shine, but it doesn't last. I do have some scraps laying around. I think I'll probably end up using thung or Danish oil but try out a variety of waxes and polishes on the scraps. Janel, one of my concerns was that the oil would lose its finish in time, but it's a personal piece and I don't mind reapplying the oil every once in a while. If I were selling it, I think I would seek a longer lasting finish.
I'll post images as soon as I replace the batteries in my camera.
Thanks
josh
BTW: that knife handle looked really silky and nice to touch.
#9
Posted 07 April 2008 - 12:29 AM
As promised....
Mibro Buffing and Polishing Compound (white)
1st stage, Heavy cleaning.
I have several colors of this product by Mibro, but all I ever use is the white anymore. It works on all of my buffing projects. On a side note when buffing black micarta or ebony, first, I buff my wedding ring to blacken the wheel with the gold, and lay down some of that color on the black mat'l.
It also shines my ring and keeps the wifey happy. :-)
#10
Posted 07 April 2008 - 02:17 AM
always a good idea to keep the wife smiling.
I'll try out some of that polish on my scrap wood before I commit.
Josh
#11
Posted 07 April 2008 - 09:13 PM
I'll have to experiment a bit with that - I often like to put sterling silver together with ebony and it would be nice to have a polish for both at the same time.
Blessings,
Magnus
"if not for the point, the still point, there would be no dance. And there is only the dance." T.S.Elliot
#12
Posted 07 April 2008 - 10:57 PM
Try sanding (wet and as fine as possible), oil (let it a few days dry/set), buffing compound (red or white) and maybe oil again. That should do the trick.
#13
Posted 08 April 2008 - 12:07 AM
magnus homestead, on Apr 7 2008, 05:13 PM, said:
I'll have to experiment a bit with that - I often like to put sterling silver together with ebony and it would be nice to have a polish for both at the same time.
Blessings,
Magnus
Actually Magnus, the ring at the base of the handle directly above the guard is sterling silver. The guard and butt pieces are stainless steel and on the very tip is a little nickel silver flower which you can barely see in this pic.
#14
Posted 08 April 2008 - 03:29 PM
The piece still has hours and hours of carving left to do before i can start applying the finish.


#15
Posted 08 April 2008 - 05:49 PM
The club looks very good. I like the curves in the shape and the carving seems very tidy.
Will you be trying it out?
-t
#16
Posted 08 April 2008 - 06:18 PM
toscano, on Apr 8 2008, 01:49 PM, said:
The club looks very good. I like the curves in the shape and the carving seems very tidy.
Will you be trying it out?
-t
Heheh,
I may keep it next to my bed in order to fool myself into thinking I'm tough enough to protect my house. other than that, it'll just have to be a conversation piece.
I think i had more fun researching and learning about the cultures that these types of weapons come from more than the the actual creation of it.
Thanks for the kind words
j
#18
Posted 10 April 2008 - 08:51 PM
Thanks Mike and Leon, I'll give that a try.
Hi Joshua, I like your club carving very much - the Macassar Ebony is beautiful even in the rough carved stage - it will for sure be a beauty when finished. And welcome to the Carving Path!
Enjoy,
Magnus
"if not for the point, the still point, there would be no dance. And there is only the dance." T.S.Elliot

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