Wood Carving Knife Blades
#1
Posted 23 January 2009 - 02:52 AM
Thanks for any help.
Robert
Hattiesburg, MS
#2
Posted 23 January 2009 - 05:10 AM
Welcome to The Carving Path, even if it is three years late! I cannot answer your questions well enough so I will let others do that. Thank you for asking a good question!
Janel
What you can do, or dream you can, begin it; Boldness has genius, power and magic in it. ~ Goethe ~
Janel Jacobson's web site
#3
Posted 23 January 2009 - 01:59 PM
Some steels can be tempered to Rc 61 and will not be to brittle for carving, others require Rc 58-60 range.
Plain carbon steel that is forged will have better grain distribution and can be used at Rc 60-61.
My suggestion is to harden several blades and then temper to Rc 58, Rc 60, Rc 61-62 and test them for yourself.
This assumes you know the alloy and have access to the tempering temperatures and can accurately measure the temperature
A digital toaster oven is not bad for experimenting, it may not be accurate for temp. however, the results are repeatable for future usage.
Regards,
FK
#4
Posted 24 January 2009 - 01:54 AM
Fred Krow, on Jan 23 2009, 07:59 AM, said:
Some steels can be tempered to Rc 61 and will not be to brittle for carving, others require Rc 58-60 range.
Plain carbon steel that is forged will have better grain distribution and can be used at Rc 60-61.
My suggestion is to harden several blades and then temper to Rc 58, Rc 60, Rc 61-62 and test them for yourself.
This assumes you know the alloy and have access to the tempering temperatures and can accurately measure the temperature
A digital toaster oven is not bad for experimenting, it may not be accurate for temp. however, the results are repeatable for future usage.
Regards,
FK
Im not sure if i am going to hit the right button, here goes.
Yeah, i mainly lurk and read, thank you for the welcome.
ill probably use 1084 carbon steel. Ill make about 6 and temper them at various temps and intervals, then i can try each and see which works best, after that i should have the procedure down to make a few different styles. thanks for the input, ill post back what i find.
blue skies
robert
#5
Posted 24 January 2009 - 02:01 AM
Janel, on Jan 22 2009, 11:10 PM, said:
Welcome to The Carving Path, even if it is three years late! I cannot answer your questions well enough so I will let others do that. Thank you for asking a good question!
Janel
Janel,
I just visited your website. After viewing your ....exquisite work, i am now reminded why i keep my mouth shut, and just read the forums here. Wow....beautiful.
blue skies
robert
#6
Posted 24 January 2009 - 02:52 AM
You did find the right button! Well done. You don't always need to use the Quote feature unless there is something needed to add to the message being written.
Thanks for the compliment. Please, keep contributing! I do look forward to finding out what you come up with when making the tools. Photos are also welcome!
Janel
What you can do, or dream you can, begin it; Boldness has genius, power and magic in it. ~ Goethe ~
Janel Jacobson's web site
#7
Posted 24 January 2009 - 09:46 PM
I have made many carving knives from 1095 steel by forging, oil quenching, and tempering back to a brown-purple color. (see my post on Notes on "Heat Treatment of Carbon Steel, A basic description of the hardening and tempering of steel tools" in the metalwork section).
I have know idea what the Rockwell hardness of them is, and no ability to test it, but they hold a razor edge much longer that any of the commercial knives that I have.
Phil
#8
Posted 25 January 2009 - 01:26 PM
I have made a large no of small tools over a no of yrs. My first carving knife was made from a smoothing plane blade which takes and holds its edge well. Rc +-58-60.
Subsequently I have used a German steel (Bohler K460) to make small knives, chisels etc heat treated to +- Rc62 (following Bohler's prescription). I also made smoothing blades for myself and a Friend which have proven far superior to any bought blade.
Untempered they are as/more brittle than glass
Tempered they work well and so far seem to hold their edge well. I tend to strop frequently so my tools seldom get a chance to become blunt
Hopefully this has added some background to your knife making.
Looking forward to further report backs.
Toothy
#9
Posted 25 January 2009 - 02:20 PM
To what color do you temper? (is that the right question?)
Janel
What you can do, or dream you can, begin it; Boldness has genius, power and magic in it. ~ Goethe ~
Janel Jacobson's web site
#10
Posted 29 January 2009 - 07:52 PM
When I temper the tools I try to temper to a pale straw. I harden by cooling the bright cherry red steel in ordinary motor oil. The Bohler recipe tempers in the oven (wifes kitchen!) at 160 deg Centigrade for an hour. This gives me the pale straw. Other steels may be different.
I have no knowledge of 1095 or 1084 steel but I also use silver steel which gives a good blade.
A 1mm blade is very difficult to temper
Sorry for the delay in answering, I dont log on too often and I evidently didn't tick the notification block
Toothy
#11
Posted 04 May 2009 - 08:02 PM
#12
Posted 05 May 2009 - 03:54 PM
a.priddy, on May 4 2009, 10:02 PM, said:
Hi A.Priddy and welcome to this forum
Thanks for the link.
I hope others may find it useful as well
Toothy
#14
Posted 06 May 2009 - 11:47 PM
also, both Drakes and pinewood forge sell excellent blades for the $$$ highly recomend both!
#15
Posted 06 May 2009 - 11:50 PM
#16
Posted 03 July 2009 - 04:14 AM
#17
Posted 03 July 2009 - 01:15 PM
I have made many tools from files, including knives from needle files. Provided they are tempered properly, they make excellent carving tools, and hold an edge very well. I have a hooked knife made from a small half-round file that I have been using for 20 years.
Phil
#18
Posted 04 July 2009 - 03:55 AM
Attached image(s)
#19
Posted 03 March 2010 - 06:43 PM
Yuri, on Jul 4 2009, 03:55 AM, said:
Yuri
What do use of a grinder? Won't a diamond wheel lose its diamonds? Won't an Arkansas stone take too long? I'm new to all of this.
Sally
#20
Posted 05 March 2010 - 10:24 PM
The carving tools (store bought tools) I use are a high carbon spring steel & hardened from
Rc 59 to 61... so it sounds as if you're in the right ballpark. Not that knowledgable about making
carving tools but I'm very happy with how these tools buff up to a mirror finish & hold they're edge
for a long, long time.
Speaking of keeping the mouth shut & reading the posts ... I too have ben struck dumb by the amazing
work here. It's turning me into a lurker & it sure takes a lot to shut me up.
Thanks for sharing folks!!
Slaightear
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Cuidhil-meaban
============== Faisg air an Aird-a-Tuath ============
Cha d' fhiach e cac na circe ruaidh. {an old PEI Gaelic expression}
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