Karl Carvalho, on Dec 1 2009, 04:25 PM, said:
Aloha Tom,
Another nice one. Is the shibuichi patinated (and ratio/alloy mix)?
Regarding sanding lathe work... don't know your equipment, but one of the best investments I've ever made is a variable speed
reversing lathe. I can take the surface to 4/0 steel wool, add detail with a honed, 55 degree detail scraper and polish out fine lines.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/koolau_arts/s...ith/3279863382/
Karl
Hi Karl,
The shibuichi is 15% silver, the balance copper. I just used Birchwood Casey Super Blue (cold gun blue) as a patina, then steelwooled the high spots back to bare metal. The purchaser will need to gently use a pencil eraser occassionally over the years on the high spots as the metal ages (remember using pencil erasers to shine pennies in school when you were supposed to be listening to the teacher?). A full rokusho patina would just make the whole surface a dark grey, and that would dissappear in the dark wood. Besides, I rather like the pinky-bronzy (good art term, that!) look of shibuichi, and using shibuichi lends an air of sophistication that copper would not. Plus, I really like the way it carves - copper is kind of "gummy" and shibuichi is a nice hard bronze. Of course, I often work in steel, so hard is a relative term....
As far as sanding, my little Sherline doesn't reverse (something I have wished for over the years), but considering the piece in question is a little over an inch in diameter, sanding is problematic at that size no matter what I use. At that size and smaller, just the wood pores of even a fairly tight grained wood like ziricote can overpower your sanding. The area of concern can't really be seen in the hand and in normal light without magnification - and that pretty much sums up one of the great difficulties of photography, rather than seeing art in person and without visual augmentation.