cheers
carving with symetry
#1
Posted 24 May 2010 - 01:38 AM
cheers
#2
Posted 24 May 2010 - 03:52 AM
Janel
What you can do, or dream you can, begin it; Boldness has genius, power and magic in it. ~ Goethe ~
Janel Jacobson's web site
#3
Posted 25 May 2010 - 02:44 PM
http://www.uic.edu/com/eye/LearningAboutVi.../FaceVase.shtml
John
Havre, Montana
#4
Posted 26 May 2010 - 03:03 AM
It's okay, lady... I just LOOK like the guy your mom warned you about
#5
Posted 26 May 2010 - 11:08 AM
This is a trick I learned a long time ago: whatever you do to one side, immediately go to the other side and do the same thing. For example, if you are drawing a face, after establishing center lines, if you are drawing an eye you only draw one element at a time. First the top eyelid on one side, then the top eyelid on the other. Never draw one side at a time, you will never be able to get both sides to look alike. Alternate between both sides and it will never look so lopsided. Mercifully, the same technique translates really well to carving.
Debbie K
#6
Posted 26 May 2010 - 04:49 PM
I have a centering ruler that I use to find the center and lay out the outside lines.
Ed Twilbeck
#7
Posted 26 May 2010 - 09:33 PM
There have been some good suggestions here. Thanks Debbie for the point of carving alternate sides of the eye features for example - faces are something I'm still learning.
I also use a good set of dividers (like a compass with two metal points) to establish distances from one point of reference to another.
Best wishes,
Magnus
"if not for the point, the still point, there would be no dance. And there is only the dance." T.S.Elliot
#8
Posted 26 May 2010 - 11:35 PM
I'm so glad you guys you responded to this topic. I never use dividers or measure anything, and I forget how useful it is for other people to do so. My training in portraiture incorporated measuring in the sense of eyes being an eye apart, ears being the same length as the nose, etc.
One of the best carvers I've ever known measured extensively. He worked from scaled drawings or photographs and measured and transferred every dimension. I just start carving, which admittedly, isn't always the best approach. But I work in gemstones primarily, and the carving is often predicated by the shape of the rock and getting the most out of it.
Another thing which I forgot to mention, if I'm doing something tricky, I might do a clay or wax mock-up first. It gives you something to compare to while carving which can be really helpful.
Magnus, if your jade letter opener or fairy bead are any indication, you don't have any trouble carving faces. I find profiles in low relief one of the most difficult to do of all things.
Debbie K
#9
Posted 29 May 2010 - 02:04 AM
in violinmaking.
symmetry involves a reference. Reference either from a center line which you create
usually by measuring three widest points deviding in half and strikeing a line between them.
or you have to gauge the symmetry in reference to a surface that you know is flat, such as granite.
I use a half template made of zinc or brass that's been filed to shape.
This helps in drawing right and left symmetry. i have an additional template for the neck and scroll.
The curve and how it is ultimately carved is artistic interpretation-----i want adherence to symmetry but im not a slave to it.
You have to learn to correct as you carve keep looking at the whole workpiece
as you work, dont get caught looking only a one part of it -----go very slow and make every cut deliberate.
The best technique for spotting symmetry is actually to turn the workpiece upside down
and see if your eye catches a mismatch.
Another interesting technique i found that a blue LED light in a dark room casts a dark black shadow!
The shadow is much crisper than in white light. You can spot mismatched symmetry in the shadow that you
may not catch looking at the object.
This helps establishing outline of a shape.
Laser levels are also fun devices for seeing curved symmetry.
if you have a dark room and a laser line level from hardware store (some as little as $6)
you can use it to cast a line across and curved surface and you can see if its symmetrical or not.
You can also use a straight edge and bright bulb light to check the curve left and right of a centerline
by looking at the shadow the straight edge casts.
The biggest help was from a drawing instructor who said to draw circles freehand. just everyday draw circles.
look at each one and figure out where you went wrong, too elliptical, too wide, too high?
fold it in fouths and look at each segment. sure it can be the symbol of a circle----
but a perfect circle takes time and patience.
-hope this helps.
+Miles
#10
Posted 14 July 2010 - 02:36 AM
I have used "Alternating Cuts" that Debbie K and Ed Twilbeck recommend and it worked well for me. The attached image is of a bone bolo tie that I carved for my wife. The tips of the bolo tie are mirror images of each other (though separate, together they form a symmetrical object ) and were done with alternating cuts.
Another technic for checking symmetry is to hold the carving up to a mirror. The mirror image will "enhance" any symmetry problems; however, use of the technics suggested byTCP carvers in this thread will minimize the need for correction.
I like Mibeck's LED light suggestion. I may give it a try sometime. I do bring carvings in progress from my basement studio to another room in the house were the sun light is different. Since shadow is an important part of sculpture, different types of light help me improve a piece even if symmetry is not an issue.
Have fun carving.
Attached image(s)
#11
Posted 16 July 2010 - 02:14 PM
Shane, on May 23 2010, 09:38 PM, said:
cheers
It is a little difficult to measure for symmetry without marking a centerline. If the carving is something that stands vertically on a base, it helps to mark the centerline(s) on the base. I found an image for that here: http://www.woodworkingtag.com/wp-content/u...d-claw-foot.jpg
When the center line is marked on the base there is less chance of loosing it while carving, because you can always re-establish the vertical by using a free standing type try-square on a flat surface, such as a piece of glass or a ceramic tile.
If you want to be really exact, and the carving is small, you can use a surface plate and and a surface gauge: http://www.micromark...uct/60520_R.jpg
Be careful not to over do the symmetry. If it is too exact the results may look a little lifeless.
Malcolm
#12
Posted 11 October 2010 - 12:35 AM
i found that i could use thin sticky back foil tape and punch leaves and other
forms from it peel the paper off --------- use it for drawing in symmetrical but
reversed shapes left and right.
This method allowed me to have perfect match of veneer and
a shape to layout the hole for the veneer to sit in.
this method could be used to make more complicate designs------
or in combination with several punches to create very complicated designs.
#13
Posted 01 May 2011 - 12:31 PM
LEARN from yesterday, LIVE for today, and HOPE for tomorrow
#14
Posted 18 July 2011 - 02:51 PM

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