[Dick Kahle]

I would like to find out how carvers hold onto the work they are doing. With large items the convention vice, and carvers screw are usefull. But when working on irregular shaped pieces smaller than 2in or 5cm it becomes more difficult. How have you solved the problem? Dick Kahle

[Janel]

I know that we had some input on this topic a while back. I'll see where it might be. Please, new members chime in with your own experiences here! I'd like to know what you use, too.

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Here is the link to one topic: CLICK HERE

There may be references elsewhere as well. Hope this helps.

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Here is what I use:



The white stuff on the carving peg is referred to in the above linked topic.

[Ko Baas]

I never use any holding device. Just hold the piece in my left hand and the tool in my right. Mostly as you would hold a hammer, sometimes with delicate work as you would hold a pencil.
I move the workpiece just as much as the tool. With combined movements.

Ko Baas

[Janel]

From Koryuen~ Netsuke Carving. Koryuen web site was created and is maintained by Komada Makiko, the daughter of Komada Ryushi a contemporary Japanese netsuke-shi and past president of the Japanese International Netsuke Carvers' Association. The photo shows Ryushi holding a carving and a tool:



The tool is gripped somewhat like a pencil and is braced against the other hand's thumb, which is used as a fulcrum. The middle finger of the tool hand is placed on the other side of the tool from the fulcrum thumb. That connection steadys the hands while the right hand aims, places and moves the cutting end of the tool against the carving. Rocking-scraping motions basically. (Since I was not present to watch the whole process, I do not know what other tools uses might be used in the course of carving a netsuke.)

[Doug Sanders]

An eagle claw grip is generally not needed for the miniature work we all do. It probably goes without saying, but the sharper the tool, the looser you need to grip the item. Obviously there are some tasks where you need both hands free (punch work, certain drilling occasions...)- that's where the ticky-tacky white stuff or a vise comes in handy, or need to brace the item against a hard, resistant surface (sawing, filing, etc)

[old_greek]

Micro-mark catalog has a holder they call a "Universal clamp".....it goes for between $25 & 30.
I've seen it used by a model shipbuilder friend. I'm not too sure how to do all the things to allow
you all to to pictures etc. so it's at micromark.com. Hope this helps someonework easier.

[Don The Carving Glove Guy]

I am new to this blog but when I looked at the different carvers holding the small item in their bare hands I was very supprised. I always use a kevlar glove with a leather face to hold the item. The gloves I am talking about can be found on MY web site since I started out selling tools by selling gloves. The web site is http://www.thecarvinggloveguy.com I this site you can see two size gloves which are both LH and RH. At the very least wearing a glove gives you some chance of not cutting your hand.

[Chuck Trout]

Janel, on Sep 26 2006, 06:34 AM, said:

Here is the link to one topic: CLICK HERE

url got mangled somehow the repair would be
http://www.thecarvin...hp?showtopic=84
somehow &hl=hold got tacked on and bumps you out of the forum to one of those placeholders

how I hold something down varies with the object, from a tack weld, hot glue, wax, pitch, partially wrapped with a vise, drill a hole and tap from behind and add a mounting\holding plate, carve a protective wood jig to use in a vise, or freehand with no mount

[Janel]

Thank you Chuck for catching that problem link. There may be a few more of those throughout the forum. In January 2007, there was a problem with the renewal of the .com version of the forum domain name, and it was switched to .net. I have fixed that original link so that it will go to the right page. Thank you again for catching it.

Hi Don, I like to be bare handed when doing the detail carving, which is the majority of the carving that I do. The first day when roughing out the piece, I wear a glove, because the rotary tool catches and circumvents the piece, over my fingers and fingernails on occasion. Gloves are mandatory for that part of my work. With what I do, the wood is so hard, and rounded, that it becomes slippery, and leather when the suede is worn off, becomes slippery also. I have many times encouraged the members to cut away from their flesh, (though I have not said that for a while).

Janel

[Chuck Trout]

your welcome Janel, I'll keep an eye out for any others and just PM you


luckily rotary burs don't make very deep holes
Ive got a bit of a divot in my wrist from a full sized die grinder that caught, whipped over the piece, then climbed up and mangled my glove
Not as bad as a when a harddisk or sanding pad catches or explodes off an angle grinder. (sent our lead smith to hospital last month)

I recut these fireplace bosses freehand on Friday, gloves are mandatory for tools with that much rotational energy. (click to enlarge)
(and a thick welding jacket isnt a bad idea either, would have saved our lead a trip)

[Jim Kelso]

Clive, on Mar 3 2008, 11:01 AM, said:

Don.. would it surprise you to learn that it is a lack of basic carving technique that necessitates your use of said glove?

According to whom?

[Doug Sanders]

Ah yes- but we don't wear a seatbelt because we've failed the driver's exam.

Thornily,
Doug

p.s. I don't wear a glove either for reasons like Janel's

[toscano]

Doug Sanders, on Mar 3 2008, 12:50 PM, said:

Ah yes- but we don't wear a seatbelt because we've failed the driver's exam.

you're right. we do because OTHERS may have

-t

[toscano]

Clive,
can you show us a few examples of what you consider to be good techniques for holding carving tools?

regards,
t

[toscano]