Cleaning diamond burrs - Any clues Nickel Carvers Nightmare
#1
Posted 10 May 2007 - 11:19 PM
I have managed to plug quite a few detailing coins
Typical cleaning rubber and stones don't do any good. I have been trying ferric on them with some sucess but there has to be a better way.
TIA
Steve
#2
Posted 11 May 2007 - 01:40 AM
www.sterlingsculptures.com
Here is a test to find out whether your mission in life is complete. If you're alive, it isn't. Richard Bach
#3
Posted 12 May 2007 - 07:01 PM
Steve Ellsworth, on May 10 2007, 11:19 PM, said:
I have managed to plug quite a few detailing coins
Typical cleaning rubber and stones don't do any good. I have been trying ferric on them with some sucess but there has to be a better way.
TIA
Steve
Hi Steve,
I know this problem especially on copper. To reduce this try to use your burrs on lower speed.
To clean them rub them on low speed and low pressure (to avoid damage of the diamond layer) on a piece of steel. This should scrape the copper or nickel layer out of the burr.
regards
#4
Posted 16 May 2007 - 09:45 AM
#5
Posted 19 May 2007 - 04:00 AM
Don't know if this helps, but have you tried:
1) reversing the bits' rotation (if it is not directional) while cleaning it;
2) tumbling it in an organic media like walnut hulls;
3) putting it through a sonicator in a liquid cleaner or lubricant;
4) and/or using Crystalcut (by Crystalite) or a comparable? Lapidaries use it while running their diamond shaping tools to cool and clean the abrasives.
Obviously you should test this out on a lesser bit.
Good luck.
Karl
addendum: It does not help your particular problem, but I noticed that Crystalite offers their PBS series shaped points described as no-load. Price seems reasonable. Maybe someone else has tried them.
I use Bostik's Dri-Cote (available from Woodcraft) to coat my bits and cutters almost daily. Best started on new tooling. Their claims of non-contamination seem to hold up. Be careful; the propellant is butane/propane.
#6
Posted 28 May 2007 - 02:55 AM
I'm a stone carver and use diamond blades & tools a good bit. Recently I cut a bunch of aluminum pieces with one of my dry-cut sintered diamond blades — 'gumming' it up a good bit with aluminum deposits on the surface. I just turned around and cut up some travertine (spring-deposited limestone about as hard as medium-hard marble), and the aluminum was completely gone in less than two minutes of cutting.
Whatever it is worth,
Don
www.dondougan.com
#7
Posted 27 July 2007 - 01:21 AM
I'll givethem all a try.
I have gone the route with Ferric - probably close to oven cleaner
three different stones for diamond cleaning - but I'll get some differnt rocks to see if they grab it out
and i have hit the steel plate.
I think all of these work for the rougher grit diamonds - the onesi have been going nuts with are thetype they use for final work and polishing - very fine grit. The lowest being about 1200 and up to 2500 in a gold plated tip.
Appreciate it!
SLE
#8
Posted 27 July 2007 - 06:47 AM
This information was passed on to me in a round about way. An "old timer" that worked in a shipyard and ground alot of aluminum used this to keep his burrs clean.
Have no clue whether it works or not but I am about to find out and will pass along the results.
Mark
#9
Posted 27 July 2007 - 06:12 PM
http://www.gesswein.com/catalog/catalog.cf...FTOKEN=25668422
I'm in no way trying to endorse the Gesswein model; it was simply to illustrate what I was talking about.
Bob Duncan
Technical Editor
Woodcarving Illustrated
#10
Posted 28 January 2008 - 07:55 PM
Steve Ellsworth, on May 10 2007, 06:19 PM, said:
I have managed to plug quite a few detailing coins
Typical cleaning rubber and stones don't do any good. I have been trying ferric on them with some sucess but there has to be a better way.
TIA
Steve
Steve, you might try high speed burrs for this job. Also available in carbide. Many sizes and shapes. Available from any jewelers tool supply. Lubricate with bee's wax. D
#11
Posted 02 March 2008 - 05:09 PM

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