Feb 19 2005, 05:01 PM
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![]() Administrator ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Admin Posts: 2,776 Joined: 12-January 05 From: Minnesota, USA Member No.: 2 |
The following is Q&A from an email message I received this week:
Thanks for writing. I do not have all the answers but I will see if I will be able to help with your questions. "Ms. Jacobson: Hi. I have been working with porcelain about 6 months now and I love it. I was working with the polymer clays before. I reread the article about you in Ornament Magazine and would really appreciate some information. Are there any porcelain or clay carving books you would recommend?" I do not know the answer to this. I began carving clay by knife drawing on clay and painting slip into the outlines. This led to knife drawing with a little clay removed, to eventually years later to a very complex foreground, middle ground and background relief carving. My carvings began (and still do) with drawing from nature. When composing a concept for the porcelain pieces, I would draw on tracing paper, one side outline composition, the other side was the shading. That way the outlines and the shading could be played with while not disturbing one another. The outline was then transferred to the damp clay surface (which means the outlines are done in reverse of the image to be carved), and then the clay removal began. With damp clay subtraction carving is the main action, but some clay could be added if the carved surface is still damp. I used standard small wire loop tools for the gross outlining/clay removal, but most of the other tools were made from bamboo. I sought a piece of bamboo with a wide diameter, split slivers of various widths, shaved off the softer inner material and formed ends for scraping, using fine wet/dry sand paper to form and hone the carving ends. The goal was to have an extremely smooth and sharp edge, but not too sharp of an angle for the blade to tool thickness nor one that was too wide. Experience will help you figure it out. One tool was more knife like with a straight edge that went from tip to partway down (~2" blade length) the length of the ~1/2 " wide tool. Other tools were as tiny as possible from half an inch wide straight and skewed, down to 1/32". Length of tool depends on the source of bamboo, and the length shortens over time with sharpening. These tools are delightfully light weight and quiet to use. The smallest widths I wrapped with waxed linen to give me something to hold on to. "I have two beginning carving books, but they are both on wood. I am learning to reverse my vision," Interesting concept put into words... "but would like help if possible. With the polymer I've done a lot of sculpture and bas relief but that's all add on not subtraction. Anything you can tell me would be a help. I do work small, but for beads and brooches not netsuke. I'm not that ambitious. I'm sure you've heard it before, but your work is wonderful, both the wood carving and the few porcelain pieces I have been able to find on the web." Thank you, xxxx Warmest regards, Janel -------------------- ~ To affirm and promote the inherent worth and dignity of every person ~
Teachers open doors, you enter by yourself. Chinese proverb What you can do, or dream you can, begin it; Boldness has genius, power and magic in it. ~ Goethe ~ Janel Jacobson's web site |
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Janel Porcelain Carving Feb 19 2005, 05:01 PM
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