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tsterling

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About tsterling

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    http://www.sterlingsculptures.com
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    Washington State

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  1. Mini Alligator Skull.

    Here's the link: http://www.thecarvingpath.net/forum/index.php?/topic/766-homage/ Tom
  2. Hi Dennis, Yes, I only use the transfers on metal or plastic. For wood, I just rubber cement the paper directly onto the wood and just cut right through the paper. Varnish will probably leave little problems for you later when applying a finish to the wood, and any solvent will dissolve the toner so the black will soak into the wood. Tom
  3. Hi Matty. I'm probably the only guy doing transfers on this forum. Don't overthink this too much - I use an HP P1102w laser printer (very inexpensive) and Kirkland brand kitchen baking parchment (also very inexpensive), with plain old Damar varnish from the art supply store. In fact, probably anything that gets a little sticky will remove the laser toner from the parchment. Clear fingernail polish would probably work as long as you caught it at the right time - the Damar varnish is slow enough drying that you have plenty of grace period before it is too dry. Tom Tom
  4. Creating Silhouettes For Coin Cutting

    I use a baking parchment/laser printer transfer directly onto the metal - gives nice thin, dark lines without having to cut through a "fuzzy edged" paper pattern (and getting fuzzier as you cut) - much more accurate. One word of warning - apparently Brother laser printers don't work for this. Here's a link for a pretty simple tutorial on this method: http://www.engravers...Laser-Transfers Except, where they talk about "Tom Whites solution, or some of the homebrew by Mike Cirelli," I just paint a light coat of unthinned Damar varnish (any art supply store) on the metal, and let it get tacky before burnishing the image onto the metal. Don't forget that you must flip your image before printing (make a mirror-image), or your transfer will end up backwards on your coin. A little heat or blowing with compressed air will speed drying, and then the image is moderately bulletproof. Or go get a cup of coffee and procrastinate for a little while - my usual solution. Also, don't touch the laser printer image on the baking parchment, you will wipe it right off. I print a row of the same image at a time, since I usually screw at least one up by either getting it positioned wrong, or my stubby fingers wipe the image off of the parchment before I get it onto the metal. A little lacquer thinner or paint thinner will remove the Damar varnish and/or a bad image transfer. Good luck! Tom PS If you want to explore other transfer methods, then right there in The engraver's Cafe (link above, or here: http://www.engraverscafe.com), do a search for "transfer" and get more hits than you will care to peruse. PPS Have you investigated Hobo Nickels? Same place. PPPS Here's another engraving forum to look through: http://www.engravingforum.com
  5. Netsuke Carving eBook

    Thanks, Clark. Hope you enjoy it! Tom
  6. Netsuke Carving eBook

    Hi Brian and David - hope the eBook is of use. Glad you like it. Tom
  7. Netsuke Carving eBook

    You're welcome, Larry. Hope it's of some use.
  8. Netsuke Carving eBook

    You're welcome! Tom
  9. Netsuke Carving eBook

    You're welcome, Christophe. Hope it's of use.
  10. Netsuke Carving eBook

    You're welcome! Hope the eBook is helpful. Tom
  11. A few netsuke

    Really nice work, Ko! Thanks for showing it. Horn certainly isn't the most cooperative material, but you did just fine with it.
  12. Netsuke Carving eBook

    Hello Cornel, Good to hear from you. I'm glad you liked my eBook - I really enjoyed producing it. Hopefully your friends will find it useful. Glad you like my little excursion into metal - I'm enjoying it very much. Tom
  13. 2010 CKCA cancer research benefit knife

    Stunning work as usual, Barry! I can't tell from the photos what the engraving background treatment is? Thanks for sharing!
  14. Getting black specks out of cow bone

    Steam would soften and distort the bone and the surrounding wood as well, requiring further sanding, and hence, a repetition of the problem. I'd try this only as a last resort. Now that I think about it, your best bet would be to (GENTLY!) use scrapers rather than sandpaper for finishing the inlaid bone and surrounding wood. Look on this forum for Janel's postings about the Myhre knives (actually more like scrapers). Also, here's a link about making Clive Hallam's "Shirley Temple" scrapers for netsuke carving: Part 1 http://followingtheironbrush.org/viewtopic...f=57&t=1361 Part 2 http://followingtheironbrush.org/viewtopic...f=57&t=1494 And here's a posting by yours truly about another way of grinding Clive's little scrapers for metalwork: http://followingtheironbrush.org/viewtopic...?f=9&t=1472 Good luck - let us know what happens. If you decide to use the scrapers, a sequence of photos making the scrapers (and using them) would be really helpful to the forum.
  15. Getting black specks out of cow bone

    It's probably wood dust in the haversian canals. Try high pressure air to blow the dust out. Failing that, maybe use ivory, which doesn't have the haversian canals that bone and antler has.
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