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kristopher skelton

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About kristopher skelton

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  1. The Cutting Edge

    posted on Don Fogg's bladesmith board in "The Way".... http://mse.iastate.edu/files/verhoeven/KnifeShExps.pdf may be helpful :dunno:
  2. Copper forming

    can you use jewlers saws with steel (mild, non-hardened stuff)? If so, what size would you recommend? I was thinking size 8 (28 TPI) would probably be sufficient. Sorry if that's too far off topic.
  3. basic basic basic chisel making

  4. Make your signature a link to your website

    Hey folks, I was just reading a discussion in the business forum about website philosophies and thought I'dd copy a tutorial I posted at Don Fogg's site:
  5. basic basic basic chisel making

    What's more classic than a '77 Vantage? By many counts the first British SuperCar.... It looks like a Mustang swallowed a brick and sounds like said Mustang had been smoking Lucky Strikes for thirty years Tell you what- I'll get the old Vantage, you get the DB5 and we'll do some bracketed road course laps. Call me when you're ready ('cause I won't be for a looooooong time )
  6. basic basic basic chisel making

    How about a 1977 Vantage? Or this bad boy http://v8vantage.com/v12.htm
  7. basic basic basic chisel making

    wow.... and I though voicing an opinion on fixed blades versus folders was a contentious subject.... Well, as I said I would, I removed the whole issue of heating to whatever temp, quenching briefly and repeating. I'm really not that interested in making austentite or martensite or whateverisite.... unless there's AstonMartin-site in which case I really would enjoy a new British sports car I just want knives that cut without chipping or rolling an edge and chisels that chisel away metal, wood or whatever.
  8. basic basic basic chisel making

    I just thought of something.... the guy in the video is some brand of European... think he meant 800C? That would certainly change the effect, I would think. Either way, I've been "getting away" with not doing it for my blades and it's apparent that there's something missing in my application. So, I'll just remove that from the tutorial and we can all be done with it Gambatte!!
  9. basic basic basic chisel making

    I air-normalize my blades but for the chisels I've been trying the "thermal cycling" as described in the video linked to here: http://forums.dfoggknives.com/index.php?showtopic=3512 I just took another look and I think that I -did- normailze it, more or less, without realizing it and adding the step to the tutorial. The chisel was heated and worked very slightly, for picture purposes, before being clamped in the vice to be filed. Setup for the pictures took long enough that my wife actually touched the tip and it wasn't at all hot. Then I went to the thermal shocking and hardening..... So yes, everyone, please do heat to non-mag and then air cool. It will only help
  10. Greetings from Seattle

    check it: http://www.thecarvingpath.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=298
  11. basic basic basic chisel making

    It's a start for those of you who want to try your hand at making your own chisels. It's for my second steel carving chisel, but the theory applies to wood carving and stone carving tools as well. My caution for thin wood carving tools it to not let the edge get too hot. It's easy to do and you'll find you always get an edge that won't stay sharp. Enough ado.... The following link is no longer avialable: www.alchemyforge.net/chiseltutorial.html I'm completely open to suggestions, additions and "What the hell were you thinking?!" type comments
  12. Greetings from Seattle

    Thanks guys, good to see lots of familiar faces tsterling- I'll do what I can. I wish I'd seen this earlier, I just remade a chisel that I made last night. Quite a simple affair, it's a little wider than pointed... that is, it started as a point and then I filed it to be a little wide Having started as a blacksmith that's how I approach tool making. Cut a piece off of a coil spring, heat and straighten. Then draw out to a point and do a little filing while hot. reheat to "red" (like the tomoato juice for your bloody mary ) and quench the tip. Remove from quenchant (water) file the tip and fully quench when the color runs to the tip and makes it light straw. (pics to follow on website) Oh and compared to some of the tools I've seen in the gravers discussion, this thing is a freaking baseball bat I certainly have a lot to learn on the tool/knife front but I'll share what I've found out. Actually, if you want to come over to Lynnwood I'll show you what I know. Should take the better part of a half hour
  13. Greetings from Seattle

    Hi everybody, I'm new (you knew that) and Janel's email asked me to do a bit of an intro. There's not much to tell and most of it can be found at http://www.alchemyforge.net I found this site through Don Fogg's forum ( http://forums.dfoggknives.com ) when I asked about carving a knot onto a blade. I do as much of my work as I can by hand, with simple tools. And by hand I mean my muscles doing the work, as opposed to some of the mass produced companies that sell items that are "made by hand" meaning a guy pushed a button on a machine I make as many of my tools as I'm able, although hammers and tongs are right out because I only have so much time I can spend in the shop. Expect me to lurk and just soak up your carving knowledge because I have little to none to share right now Thanks to all who give their time to answer questions and keep this site running! Kris