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E George

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About E George

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 02/23/1943

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Bucks County, Pennsylvania, USA
  • Interests
    Carve in wood and bone. Size range is from jewerly to book case size(about 12"). Like to carve in the round animals and releif floral designs. Occasionally in the round human figures.<br /><br />Other interests include ships in bottles and wrting.

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  1. Micro Tools

    Hi Cathy, You might check out Ramelson carving tools ( www.ramelson.com) or Woodcraft (www.woodcraft.com). Ramelson has several micro sets for sale. The Woodcraft price appears to be a little bit better. This is a new line of tools for Ramelson; however, maybe another TCP member might be have already tried this brand of micro tools and would provide a brief review of these tools. I do not use micro tools. I just happen to see a blurb in the Nov-Dec 2015 issue of Chip Chats ( National Wood Carvers Association magazine) about the Ramelson micro tools. Have fun carving.
  2. Rifflers Made In U.s.?

    Hi Nathan, Welcome to the carving path. Like Ed, I got a set of riflers at Woodcraft (www.woodcraft.com) ; however, I bought, some years ago, the Italian set from Wood craft. They are expensive but well worth the price. Maybe consider buying one or two real good riflers instead of the complete set. I also have an inexpensive set that were made in China and they are not as responsive as the Italian riflers. I my knowledge there are no Riflers made in the USA. I thought there was a thread onThe Carving Path about riflers; however, using "rifler files" or just "files" in the TCP search didn't yield anything. Remember the tool buying rule: Buy the best that you can afford. Have fun carving, E George P.S. I found the thread : see "Rifflers and Detail Rasps" in Tools & Technical.
  3. Strange And Had To Show

    Hi Tony, Definitely a nice carving; however, I don't have additional information to give you. If it were mine, I'd have him standing guard somewhere in my house. He looks like a knight of King Arthur or King Richard the Lion Heart. If you have the time, please post a photo of the sword side. Where did you get the piece ? Any marking on the base ? Thank you for sharing it with us.
  4. Polishing

    Ed, Check out Rio Grande jeweler's supply ( http://www.riogrande.com ) use "Chamois buffs" in their search. Other jeweler supply houses may carry them also. They do a nice job for me when I use tripoli or white diamond. I bought six about three or four years ago and I'm still using the first one. Some of the plies are now slightly out of round; however, they are very light and it doesn't effect the way they buff. They don't give off pieces of thread or dust like other types of buffs. Rio Grande also have a microfiber version which I have but haven't used. The microfiber buffs can be washed so they claim.
  5. Polishing

    I too like to use a Foredom for buffing because, with a foot pedal speed control, I can run it at low RPM's. One inch or smaller wheels are good for applying buffing compounds such as tripoli or white diamond. I also have some 3/4 inch chamois wheels that are good for creating a nice luster after compound has been applied. Even at low RPM's there is still the potential for a carving achieving suborbital flight. Hold on tight! I have a couple of my wife's discarded nylons that I use for a finial shine. Hand polishing gives me a chance to really study the piece and lets my carver's vanity have reign.
  6. My Bone Carving Pendants.

    I too like the red color and would like to know how it was created. In addition I like the texture created by the little bumps. You have created an unique style of hook. Thank you for showing it to us.
  7. Palm Nuts

    Hi Ed, I am a little late to this thread. How did you fare with your palm nut pendant ? If you have a moment, please upload a photo of the piece. I just finished my first tagua nut carving. Unfortunately, our climate does not permit growing palms so I bought a bag of tagua nuts from a wood carving supply catalog. Like Debbie, I carved it dry using mostly a flex shaft tool and an assortment of burrs. I did do some hand detail work using, excuse the pun, some small palm chisels. I was surprised that the nut was not as hard as I thought; however, power carving is the way to go on these nuts. I used white diamond buffing compound (available in jewelry supply catalogs) to finish the piece. There is a void or hollow space in the center of the nut. This can pose a problem when designing an executing a palm nut carving. I had beginners luck: the void was bacon strip shape ( see first attachment) that just happened to be vertical to the mouse design I was doing. An opening appeared in the chest of the mouse that was slightly visible. My wife suggested I use a filler of nut dust and white glue to fill the opening. That worked well. There is a TCP thread that describes some of the characteristics of tagua nuts ( click here ) that includes: color variation, oil in the nut, inlay problems, and appearance of black spots on the nut. Would like to hear any "words of wisdom" from TPC members that have experience with these palm nuts.
  8. Hi Ted, Thanks for sharing your antique hooks with us. I am a "Yank" and what I know about Maori fish hook I learned from TCP forum. So, like you, I'd be interested in more information on these hooks. What is interesting is the line of barbs on the hook shown on the right. It looks like it might have actually been used for fishing. Most modern hooks I have seen sold as pendants are stylized. Maybe I have dreamed this up but I thought Maoris when fishing actually carried their fishing hooks around their necks. Hopefully some New Zealander will support or debunk that. The style of lashing between the hook and the rest of the pendant looks like the correct knotting. There is a TCP thread showing how make that style of lashing. Also I have read that Maoris use a special type of cord made from natural materials. I think there is a TCP thread about this as well. Again, thanks for taking the time to photograph your hooks and uploading them.
  9. More Novice Pix (And More Qtns...)

    Hi Dave, Excellent carving. Cat anatomy is very subtle and you have captured it. Type of finish used on a carving depends on what the carver wishes to express. For example, a fish might be highly polished to give a sense of being in water. Personally, the satin or low luster finish that your photos show suits a cat's fur. A high gloss finish might detract from your piece. As Janel recommends, test some different finishes on some scrap pieces. A light coating of boiled linseed oil before a protective coating will bring out the character of the wood. For that type of wood consider trying some low luster or satin polyurethane. Also look into Tripoli buffing compound. Or just use a good paste wax as a protective coating. If you can find a copy of John Rood's book Sculpture in Wood, there is a very good chapter on finishing. The book is out of print so look for it in a public library, in a used book store or on the internet. Have fun carving.
  10. Hi RVM54 I agree with Debbie K's suggestions. I have two sets of palm chisels that I bought some years ago. Although they were manufactured under a different name, they are similar to the Ramelson sets shown in the Texas Wood Carver's website and have always worked well for me. They are also available at www.woodcraft.com as well as Flexcut tools and some good pfiel Swiss palm chisels. I have a Flexcut Carvin' Jack and can attest to the quality of their chisels. I have two pfiel Swiss palm chisels that are superb. I suggest that you do some additional research on "hand grinders" before you consider purchasing a grinder or flexible shaft power tool. There is a great deal of info on power carving in the TCP forum in , I believe, this section. I have a Foredom and found that it was well worth the investment. Take your time ,look at the different power carving tools on the market, and always buy the best that you can afford. Have fun carving.
  11. Cleaning Bones

    Hi Dan, By now, I hope that you have had a chance to check out some of the threads on bone carving and bone preparation. There is lots of good information and ideas in them. I like the following quote from Toothy who is a TCP member from South Africa (click here to go the Bone Carving Thread): In this environmentally friendly era it is called "repurposing". This may explain why Kerosene and other organic solvents are not commonly used to degrease bone. However, if you are inclined, please try the kerosene method on a scrap piece of bone and post the results for other bone carvers to read. Have fun carving.
  12. Tree Frog And Baby Stick Bug

    Bob, Thanks for the great photos. I am always amazed at the different textures and colors that are on tiny creatures such as your stick bug - natural netsuke. In the summer it seems that I'm rescuing frogs from our swimming pool and toads from our dogs. The frogs are lean and colorful while the toads are pudgy and humorous. Think I'll work up a pattern and start carving . Thanks.
  13. My first carving

    Hi Christophe, Welcome to The Carving Path. I like the way you mounted your Fish Hooks on drift wood. That's the first time I have seen that done. The cord work on the other piece is beautiful. Have fun carving and show us some more photos of your work.
  14. Netsuke Carving eBook

    Hi Tom, I downloaded your wonderful book last week. Thank you for writing and publishing it. It is great to see all the TCP members who have made use of your hard work. I am not a Netsuke carver; however, I have carved some small pieces that I've made into pins and bolo ties. So, the concepts in your book are very useful to me. I find the great variety of design in Netsuke a great resource in itself; netsuke with or without the holes is an amazing art. This is the first eBook that I have acquired. I like the fact that you can click on an item in the table of contents and presto you are at that page. It doesn't get any better than that. Also, thank you for your military service. Thanks again for your wonderful book.
  15. carving with symetry

    Hi Shane, I have used "Alternating Cuts" that Debbie K and Ed Twilbeck recommend and it worked well for me. The attached image is of a bone bolo tie that I carved for my wife. The tips of the bolo tie are mirror images of each other (though separate, together they form a symmetrical object ) and were done with alternating cuts. Another technic for checking symmetry is to hold the carving up to a mirror. The mirror image will "enhance" any symmetry problems; however, use of the technics suggested byTCP carvers in this thread will minimize the need for correction. I like Mibeck's LED light suggestion. I may give it a try sometime. I do bring carvings in progress from my basement studio to another room in the house were the sun light is different. Since shadow is an important part of sculpture, different types of light help me improve a piece even if symmetry is not an issue. Have fun carving.
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