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sergiourra

Dremel Bits - Types And Rpm

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Hello,

 

I'm new to bone bone carving and Dremel (4000 with flexible prop). I'd like to get some advises on:

 

SPEED

 

First: What Dremel bits are better for bone carving, regular speed or high speed bits?

 

I suppose that wood carving bits (high speed) will work better with bone but, you know, suppositions are not too reliable, as some ancient wise people did teach. It's always better to ask experienced persons.

 

Second: What range of speed works better for bone carving?

 

SECURITY

 

I have seen some tutorials saying that we must use a full face respiratory mask (very expensive here). Other colleagues (yes, I'm a bit brash) uses regular respiratore mask/filter in their tutorilas and very simple glasses.

 

Thinking in a very short budget and a very careful maintenance of tools , what kind of implements are secure enough for bone carving?

 

 

As you can see, I'm still buying the tools and I didn't test the material (bone).

 

Many thanks.

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Hello Sergio,

 

Bone will burn at high speeds, so I would think that using what ever tools you have should be operated at a speed that allows removal but will not burn the bone. The same measure goes for working with wood.

 

I am not a bone carving expert, but the tools that I use for wood, both the micro grinder bits and power tool and all of my hand-carving tools are interchangeable with wood and bone.

 

If you can, try to find some of the solutions in the that carvers here on the forum have used for dust collection that draws the dusts away from the face and into a collection container. If you have a kind of set up that the waste air can be vented outdoors, all the better. If the air is returned to the room, be sure to have a very high quality filter that traps the finest elements of dust.

 

A dust collector of any sort is better than simply grinding and letting the dust fly and settle everywhere. You have to live your life in the same space, so it is better to control the dust at the source.

 

I just tried Google as a SEARCH tool, instead of the one here on the forum, using "dust collection, thecarvingpath" . Several topics appeared that you could follow. I know that many photos and posts exist here that will be informative to you.

 

I am a firm believer in the use of hand tools. I do use a micro-grinder to remove the bulk waste, but the best control and results come from hand tools.

 

Janel

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I am a firm believer in the use of hand tools. I do use a micro-grinder to remove the bulk waste, but the best control and results come from hand tools.

 

Many thanks Janel, and sorry for the delay.

 

I'm very interested in the techniques developed by ancient artisans so your comment about hand tools was an opportune reminder (It is easy to be drifting pleasurably on the network).

 

Sergio

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Very few hand tools are needed to start. A jewelers saw,a few needle files and a courser roughing file,some type of drill,sand paper.I have only worked with mammoth ivory and wood to make Maori hooks and twist,a 2 inch piece takes 20-30 minutes to finish.

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I just wanted to start a thread called "one burr to rule them all" XD but I see this one is here so I post it here ...

 

I have been using diamond tools to carve (also a hacksaw and jewellers saw but thats not dremel bit) I just recently made the realisation that tungsten carbide is the way to go to carve bone. and I just found a fantastic bit which is not a dremel bit but a dentist bit .. I attached picx. I dont really know the name of the bit cuz it was something I found in my dads tool supply (its got 20 years on me) but something like : http://www.frontdent.hu/images/products/medium/22000/P021770001.JPG

 

 

and its great. I can drill a hole with it and also make deep grooves and I can cut with it so basically I cut the outline of the carving out with this like instead of using a jewellers saw or something I just draw the pattern up and then trace it.. But it does make the same sound as the dentist drill :P

 

What Im trying to say is that if you're carving bone look at dentist supplies they are the same as dremel bits but since the dentist stuff has to be medical sterile its disposable so the price is a lot lower for us who dont use it to carve into people.

 

Peace

post-4280-0-05447600-1485175596_thumb.jpg

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I use small bits and I start at a slow speed and speed up until I find a good cutting or grinding speed that is comfortable to work at. I use a foredom with a foot pedal ,, don't have any idea what the rpm s are except full speed.

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Just an FYI ... the dremel 99** series of cutters are a menace. They cut bone amazingly well but due to their cutter design in a spiral they have a nasty tendency when used in a confined space in your carving (like a piecing area) to grab hold of the bone and drill into it so fast it explodes the carving, the worst is the wedge shaped 9910 ... I recently decided to try these cutters and destroyed 2 carvings, I'll use them for roughing out on external surfaces but swapping back to the 117 cutter and similar 'straight blade cutters' on any internal points where there is any risk at all of touching 2 opposite surfaces at once.

Also on the 'burning' issue, I've been carving bone at the top speed of both my Dremel and Foredom and never had an issue unless the cutter is getting blunt. Most bone seems to resist burning much more than wood does, it smells a bit nasty sometimes but you have to be very rough with a blunt cutter to get it to discolour at all.

I tend to use the heavier cutters at a highish speed during roughing out work as they don't skip as much and get a smoother cut, I slow down for the fine detail and finishing work (that's machine finishing, I add final detail and all the clean work with hand made gravers cut from 1/8 and 1/16 drill bit shafts set in wooden handles.

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