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  3. I apologize but I do not know how to answer that question. It would be good to be able to do so. Lets hope that they do not need fixing!
  4. Thanks for your response. Ive heard great things about the NSK machines, and met a amazing Maori bone Carver who used one. I have also been researching and started using some gravers when completing the fine details in my carvings. Lots to learn ahead, but I was hoping upgrading to a micro motor would help me begin to manifest some of my more detailed carving ideas that I have. I will continue to watch to see what is available used online. Appreciate you sharing your experience with these machines. For the used machine, is it still possible to send it in to get fixed, even if you were not the initial one who purchased it?
  5. I have two NSK micrometers. They are different from one another, though at the moment I do not have their descriptions at hand. The first was purchased new, the other used, purchased from another carver met through this forum. They both work well. I set them up to use different sized collets for the two main tool bit diameters. A time saver, mainly. One has a manual speed dial, the other is foot pedal speed controlled. The original machine I used for heavy waste removal. It has held up well. The other unit uses finer bits. That said, for the majority of days and hours I spent carving any piece, one day was for roughing in a piece, the rest of the time was done with files and knives/scrapers. I never perfected finish work by rotary tool, preferring the careful development of detail that only hand tools can produce. I noticed recently that the original unit's hand-piece on-off button has deteriorated, having become not like its original self. I am not sure what the next step for that little thing will be, but the tool itself works beautifully. Janel
  6. Aloha I am currently looking at a used NSK z500 online, and just wanted to ask for any ones opinion on using a used NSK unit. It is listed at $500, which I beleive is a good deal after reading thru these threads. Is there a lot of maintanence and repairs with these units? I have some experience, though I am still on the begining of my carving journey, so I dont expect the machine to last forever, just as an introduction to these sort of high quality micro motors. Let me know what you guys think Mahalo
  7. Roystone, thank you for the link! Janel
  8. Came across this intresting web site and video on my laptop when tidying it up. I hope it is not a repost. Well worth a look for any stone carves who need some inspiration. http://stonecarving.ru/stone-sculptures-creation.html
  9. On the forum there are topics and posts about extraction fans of all sorts, from built in with capture trays to a box fan with a filter the same size as the fan ... all designed to capture the dusts. Filters should have the best rating for smallest particle capture. Here is one among many results from a search (upper right corner of window) using "extraction":
  10. Janel

    Hello from Japan

    Welcome back! Janel
  11. Hi Rebecca ! What’s a rune? I just started working with antler again using a flex-shaft type tool. a big improvement over my old hand held type. The flex shaft type is twice as fast and easy. also , working with antler stinks, I mean it literally stinks like burned flesh or something. use at least an N95 mask and safetey glasses, leather gloves. would like to hear what some of the pros have to say as well! nice to meet you btw
  12. Hi! This is my second time joining the forum. I joined a few years ago but lost my info . I’ve recently started carving with antler pieces again with better success. Nice to meet you all !
  13. Hi Rebecca.D, Use some search terms in the Search option at the upper right of the page. Using ' antler ' would be a good start. There has been much discussion about carving this material. Sorry to deflect answering, but there is a wealth of information already posted on the forum about carving antler, tusk and bone, in much broader detail than a singular response could give. Your first ' Search ' response will present a lot of reading material, and will launch your pursuit of answers and recommendations easily. Let us know how your concept is working out. Janel
  14. It is good to read that you were using water while drilling. There is good reason to not breath the dust from drilling or working with shell materials. There are topics and posts about this on the forum from past years' contributions. Janel
  15. I have recently gotten hold of a 70cm long deer antler and I want to turn part of it into a set of runes as a Christmas present for a friend... The only thing is that I have absolutely no idea how to do that. I have never really done any carving, but have always been crafty and prefer using my hands to make things. Any suggestions, tips, links, book/video recommendations, tool suggestions, etc. welcome. and very much appreciated. I've been looking forward to diving into something like this for a long time.
  16. Welcome Edward. Coin carving sounds very interesting, I would love to see some pictures if you have some. I do wood carving and if I can help I would be glad to do so. Check back and check out this forum . Have some great Artists with some great works.
  17. You will likely need to use a Carbide tool instead of High Speed Steel. Use short bursts at high RPMs, pull back out, leave it spinning to cool, then drill another 1/16th of an inch.
  18. Welcome to you Edward S, Folks check in from time to time. Meanwhile, you can find topics from earlier years about coin carving by using the SEARCH function or by using a search engine mentioning The Carving Path in the terms. I hope that you find some good tips in the knowledge stored within the forum. Janel
  19. Ship captain here who when offshore has extra time on my hands. For a few years I have been cutting out foreign coins with interesting subjects and passing them out to my crew as rewards for exemplary service. I would like to start carving now and found The Carving Path during my research. Thanks for letting me join!
  20. Maybe cheap bears a higher price than purchasing quality and fewer? Is there a grain to the material? Top to bottom instead of bottom to top perhaps? Wood and some antler does matter for with and against the grain when carving by hand and by power. Janel
  21. I was able to bore a hole through one worked, polished bead using a 1mm diamond core drilling bit, so I ordered 10 more (cheap ones) & burned all of them up trying to drill one hole through the next bead blank. I was using a water stream at the drill site, too. What’s the best bit & method to accomplish this? Thanks!
  22. We have missed most bad weather. Now fall is beautiful, cruising the coast has arrived. carving is slow now due to back pain but still working at it.
  23. I like how you could see the diving bird in the form! I look forward to seeing more later. How is your location holding up to the weather these months? Janel
  24. Todd, I am glad that you are resourceful and can make the tools to suit your needs! Thank you for posting your question and answers. Janel
  25. I did a couple of tests with acetic acid and boxwood and I found it made little difference. I think Acetic acid would make more difference on ivory and similar materials. Though I have read that acetic acid can help the stain to bind, I havent seen any difference in my tests with boxwood.
  26. Hi Daniel, Thank you for this very thorough answer ! Do you use acetic acid before immersing the pieces in yashabushi dye ?
  27. Hi there Capucine and anyone still interested in yashibushi! Im actually in the process of doing some Yashibushi staining right now. I have done it on a boxwood netsuke a few months ago and am now actually using it to stain an alder wood guitar body! I thought alder dye on alder wood could be an interesting project. I have a couple of different alder trees around me. I have found one of the trees has smaller cones (im unsure of the species exactly but it is evergreen) the cones are a bit yellower in colour and I found produce a much yellower dye. I have also noticed that cones from the larger of two deciduous trees I have produce more dye. So I guess bigger cones are better. I came to the conclusion through testing that It doesnt really matter how long you immerse the wood, as in 10 hrs or 10mins wont make much difference. The dye is only really deposited on the surface and doesnt soak in much at all. Especially with box wood due to the density. I find 10mins is sufficient to get a good coating. I have found that the cones release a kind of resin as well as the dye and when this cools/drys it creates a kind of protective resinous surface. so I found that the polish and luster of the netsuke was greater after yashibushi even if the colour was not much different. (I think Masatoshi talks about this effect...) So I think its a good idea to work with at least warm dye. Also because its really only on the surface, whilst its wet its really easy to remove it with your fingers so I suspend the netsuke and make sure I dont touch it at all when its drying. I have also found that allowing the netsuke to dry thoroghly then re-dye in the yashibushi and repeat as needed will lead to a darker netsuke. After first trying a pretty weak solution of yashibushi on this guitar im working on, I doubled the number of alder cones that I was boiling. Ive just made a batch with about 30 cones in it and I reduced it down so that I only have a very small amount of liquid, no more than a centimeter in the bottom of a jar. Its very dark, ive uploaded a photo so you can see what it looks like. I hope that helps anyone working with Yashibushi, I couldnt believe my luck when I moved into a house that had 3 alder trees nearby!
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