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  1. Last week
  2. Hi Ed, This makes me smile! Thank you for sharing it with us. Janel
  3. Earlier
  4. I was not a puppet maker but I did make a Marionette , when I finished carving him, I could not put holes in it to attach the strings. So he just sits in our apartment.
  5. This is very clever! I enjoyed seeing how Ako-Chan was involved with the movements! Thank you Janel
  6. Greetings from Tokyo In Japan, the state of emergency was finally released in this week. During the home stay period, following works had been made. https://youtu.be/F1nTgXMAMDM
  7. Greetings from Tokyo In Japan, the state of emergency was finally released in this week. During the home stay period, following works had been made. https://youtu.be/F1nTgXMAMDM
  8. Janel, in the photo is my great-grandfather at the beginning of the 20th century and in front are the heads of puppets, which he carved for the puppet theater. Pavel
  9. Hi Janel, This is cow bone and moon stone . 😎
  10. Hi Andrew, thank you for the comment. Carvers chop is very useful for me (at the link you can see how it is attached) I have my small workshop in the apartment and due to the noise I can't use a mallet or dremel, for example. That's why I have a heavy table on which I have a carves chop attached so that I can use my weight while standing while roughing. My desk is quite high, when I roughing I work standing up, I sit on a bar stool while finishing the carving. Something different suits everyone. Pavel https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/alec-tiranti-scopas-chops-carvers-823280455
  11. Darren, is this bone and opal?
  12. Pavel, can you explain what we are seeing in the photo? Janel
  13. Janel


    Hello Pavel, I've been busy and have not had time for commenting here for some time. Sorry. Yes, buxus is very much harder. Tools just need to be sharpened well and more often. The tools and wood will let you know when. More patience as well, and keep your flesh out of range of the edge ... tools can skid quickly when the edge does not catch the wood, especially on round things. Each wood has its own qualities to offer to the carver. Figuring that out is part of the life long process of learning. Janel
  14. Umm, what is the level of technology available in your universe? So, a rasp and saw with various scrapers is all you would need, plus a drill; no it does not smell like death unless you are using power tools, and even then it doesn't get past unpleasant, Any bone can be worked but the shapes you describe would need a large leg-bone, cattle or large deer. Assembly lines are a good idea. White powder does not go everywhere, even with power tools.
  15. what will you be fixing the vice to? I am a cheap-skate. My bench is a re-cycled ledge and brace door, I fixed an inherited carpenters flush vice to it, I mounted a 4x4 post (chest-height) onto a corner of it that I can screw a variety of holders to - usually scraps cut to the right shape for holding whatever I am carving - I usually screw bits and bobs directly to my 'bench' to hold whatever I am carving, sometimes some well-placed nails and peg in the vice winding the work piece to push against the nails works really well - small in-the-round carvings do not always work well with a vice. And yes, this is not best practice, and yes it damages your bench but I use mine every day and after 20 years it is still going strong. Do whatever works for you, but I would go with a flush-fit vice, not an engineers vice (mine is in a bag under the bench - I dismounted it 10 years ago as it was in the way, never even missed it) The vital thing is the height of your bench - it must be the correct height - you establish this by standing elbows at side, hands held out at 90 degrees, palm down, the palms should brush the top of your bench. If you are more than 5'3" your bench will need to be higher than a standard work bench if you stand to work.
  16. Very loosely inspired by ainu makiri, I thought my favourite whittling knife deserved a decent sheath, its not finished yet by any means, I'm in for about 30 hours so far, about another 10 before I'm done.
  17. Maybe not but a lovely piece of work all the same
  18. Hi folks, hope you are all keeping safe in these difficult times.... Not quite rotational symmetry...
  19. Howd'y! I'm writing a novel where a character needs to carve and shape bones using traditional hand tools and techniques. Some of the bones will be used for handles on swords and knives. Others will be used on arrow shafts. I don't know the first thing about bone carving or how to use bones for handles. I will summarize most of what I've found and the assumptions I'm making. Please correct me if something is untrue. My research suggests bones are greasy and need cleaning. We can assume this is done before the character receives the bones. I've also read that bones create lots of powder and smell like death. I imagine the marrow on the inside is weak and would need to be cleaned out, but I haven't found anything to state that directly. It seems some types of bone would be better for some tasks than others. But I don't know what those would be. I would be using bird bones around the arrow shafts because I understand they are light and mostly hollow . It stands to reason that you could make a slurry from bone powder to be used in polishing the bones That's what I think I know. I'll now ask what I want to know. If you're willing to respond, I will gladly accept search terms, links, videos or your personal answers. If I have additional questions after reviewing the materials you shared, I'll come back here and ask. He is attaching as many handles to swords as he can. They need to be comfortable, not decorative. I expect the swords would be full tang and run through the bone as opposed to scales on the sides. In a future chapter he will also put small bone rings on arrowheads. Considering that: What hand tools would the character need to make a basic handle? What types of bone would be best? Deer? Bear? Boar? What is it like to carve bone? Does it really smell like death as I've read? Does white power get everywhere making your neighbors think you do drugs? What's the experience like? What steps would go into the process of making a bone handle or a bone ring? Would it be possible to do an assembly line style process where the work is divided up 3-4 ways? Could each person focus on one aspect of the handle creation? Say one drills the hole and fits it on the tang, another shapes the handle and a third polishes it? If you can think of any information I might need, please feel free to share. I want to make sure I do justice to this art form and I don't know what I don't know.
  20. Hi, my great-grandfather carved in the early 20th century. When I was 30 I tried it too ... . Pavel 🙂
  21. Pavel H


    Hello Janel Thank you for a nice welcome. I chose a netsuke that I would like to make from boxwood (pict. 1). After a while it was obvious where, is the main difference. The hardness of the material determines the method of work. I work exclusively by hand. While making a small skull in a linden tree is a matter of a few hours (pict. 2), the rough processing of the boxwood (pict. 3) is much more physically demanding 🙂 But I expect that it will be much better to carve details. I will have to regrind my chisels or buy other tools for this material. Pavel
  22. Janel


    Hello Pavel! Your work portrays much character and attitude! I am enjoying what you do. The turtle even has something to say! Let us know how buxus compares to the linden wood for carving. Janel
  23. Pavel H


    Hello The Carving Path community!I come from Hradec Králové (Czech republic - Europe).Carving is my hobby. I work in a laboratory that investigates water quality in rivers.I have some experience with wood carving. So far I carved mostly from linden: puppets, heads ... I always liked to carve small objects - such as hair clips. I have now purchased Buxus from Turkey and would like to try small-scale work on this material. I hope that in this forum I find useful information for my further work.In the attached files are examples of some of my work.
  24. Wow, that is stunning, thanks for posting it
  25. John S

    Rocks in My Head

    Debbie, the Wandell pantograph uses either a trim router or a dremel tool as its "engine." Thus, there is enough torque to carve swiftly if proper cutting depth is maintained. This may require multiple passes to complete the process, which is the proper way to use a router. I have not attempted to use my Foredom flex shaft with the pantograph but see no reason why it wouldn't work with the proper setup. A "standard" pantograph allows one to trace along the x and y axes of the original image or object. The Wandell pantograph is hinged at the arm base thereby allowing the device to "rise and fall" naturally with the contours of the object, thus taking into consideration the third or "theta" axis. This should permit carving in relief, as well as in the round. I have yet to try working in three dimensions with it but will eventually try to do so. The Wandell pantograph is set up to reproduce images at either 1/2 or 1/3 actual size. Thus, if you want a 5" final product you need a 10" image to work from - otherwise the final will be 2 1/2. " I addressed this by adding an " image screen" by placing a piece of plexiglass over the pattern and running the stylus over that surface. The result is a smoother, almost effortless trace of the pattern. I can better explain this with a few photos which I will provide if helpful. So far I have cut an ammonite image as well as that of a monarch butterfly. I hope to inlay the orange and white patterns of the butterfly wings into a black wing, and I hope to create the body of the insect with my fly tying equipment. It may take a while to acquire the thin, colored veneer that is needed for this project. My wife and I are in the high risk category and currently "sheltering in place" so I have an abundance of time to play with. Mathias also offers plans for a 1:1 pantarouter which I may add to my equipment later. Stay healthy, and stay in touch! John
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