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tsterling

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About tsterling

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    http://www.sterlingsculptures.com
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    Washington State

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  1. Here's the link: http://www.thecarvingpath.net/forum/index.php?/topic/766-homage/ Tom
  2. Hi Dennis, Yes, I only use the transfers on metal or plastic. For wood, I just rubber cement the paper directly onto the wood and just cut right through the paper. Varnish will probably leave little problems for you later when applying a finish to the wood, and any solvent will dissolve the toner so the black will soak into the wood. Tom
  3. Hi Matty. I'm probably the only guy doing transfers on this forum. Don't overthink this too much - I use an HP P1102w laser printer (very inexpensive) and Kirkland brand kitchen baking parchment (also very inexpensive), with plain old Damar varnish from the art supply store. In fact, probably anything that gets a little sticky will remove the laser toner from the parchment. Clear fingernail polish would probably work as long as you caught it at the right time - the Damar varnish is slow enough drying that you have plenty of grace period before it is too dry. Tom Tom
  4. I use a baking parchment/laser printer transfer directly onto the metal - gives nice thin, dark lines without having to cut through a "fuzzy edged" paper pattern (and getting fuzzier as you cut) - much more accurate. One word of warning - apparently Brother laser printers don't work for this. Here's a link for a pretty simple tutorial on this method: http://www.engravers...Laser-Transfers Except, where they talk about "Tom Whites solution, or some of the homebrew by Mike Cirelli," I just paint a light coat of unthinned Damar varnish (any art supply store) on the metal, and let it get
  5. Thanks, Clark. Hope you enjoy it! Tom
  6. Hi Brian and David - hope the eBook is of use. Glad you like it. Tom
  7. You're welcome, Larry. Hope it's of some use.
  8. You're welcome, Christophe. Hope it's of use.
  9. You're welcome! Hope the eBook is helpful. Tom
  10. Really nice work, Ko! Thanks for showing it. Horn certainly isn't the most cooperative material, but you did just fine with it.
  11. Hello Cornel, Good to hear from you. I'm glad you liked my eBook - I really enjoyed producing it. Hopefully your friends will find it useful. Glad you like my little excursion into metal - I'm enjoying it very much. Tom
  12. Stunning work as usual, Barry! I can't tell from the photos what the engraving background treatment is? Thanks for sharing!
  13. Steam would soften and distort the bone and the surrounding wood as well, requiring further sanding, and hence, a repetition of the problem. I'd try this only as a last resort. Now that I think about it, your best bet would be to (GENTLY!) use scrapers rather than sandpaper for finishing the inlaid bone and surrounding wood. Look on this forum for Janel's postings about the Myhre knives (actually more like scrapers). Also, here's a link about making Clive Hallam's "Shirley Temple" scrapers for netsuke carving: Part 1 http://followingtheironbrush.org/viewtopic...f=57&t=1361 Par
  14. It's probably wood dust in the haversian canals. Try high pressure air to blow the dust out. Failing that, maybe use ivory, which doesn't have the haversian canals that bone and antler has.
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