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  1. Here's the link: http://www.thecarvingpath.net/forum/index.php?/topic/766-homage/ Tom
  2. Hi Dennis, Yes, I only use the transfers on metal or plastic. For wood, I just rubber cement the paper directly onto the wood and just cut right through the paper. Varnish will probably leave little problems for you later when applying a finish to the wood, and any solvent will dissolve the toner so the black will soak into the wood. Tom
  3. Hi Matty. I'm probably the only guy doing transfers on this forum. Don't overthink this too much - I use an HP P1102w laser printer (very inexpensive) and Kirkland brand kitchen baking parchment (also very inexpensive), with plain old Damar varnish from the art supply store. In fact, probably anything that gets a little sticky will remove the laser toner from the parchment. Clear fingernail polish would probably work as long as you caught it at the right time - the Damar varnish is slow enough drying that you have plenty of grace period before it is too dry. Tom Tom
  4. I use a baking parchment/laser printer transfer directly onto the metal - gives nice thin, dark lines without having to cut through a "fuzzy edged" paper pattern (and getting fuzzier as you cut) - much more accurate. One word of warning - apparently Brother laser printers don't work for this. Here's a link for a pretty simple tutorial on this method: http://www.engravers...Laser-Transfers Except, where they talk about "Tom Whites solution, or some of the homebrew by Mike Cirelli," I just paint a light coat of unthinned Damar varnish (any art supply store) on the metal, and let it get tacky before burnishing the image onto the metal. Don't forget that you must flip your image before printing (make a mirror-image), or your transfer will end up backwards on your coin. A little heat or blowing with compressed air will speed drying, and then the image is moderately bulletproof. Or go get a cup of coffee and procrastinate for a little while - my usual solution. Also, don't touch the laser printer image on the baking parchment, you will wipe it right off. I print a row of the same image at a time, since I usually screw at least one up by either getting it positioned wrong, or my stubby fingers wipe the image off of the parchment before I get it onto the metal. A little lacquer thinner or paint thinner will remove the Damar varnish and/or a bad image transfer. Good luck! Tom PS If you want to explore other transfer methods, then right there in The engraver's Cafe (link above, or here: http://www.engraverscafe.com), do a search for "transfer" and get more hits than you will care to peruse. PPS Have you investigated Hobo Nickels? Same place. PPPS Here's another engraving forum to look through: http://www.engravingforum.com
  5. Hi Freda, Sorry to be so late on this thread, but I've been on a long road trip. I got my opthalmologist to make up a prescription for the close vision bifocal portion of my glasses, adding a little magnification to that, and also calculated for the working distance I normally use for carving. Then I had that prescription put into a set of carving glasses, the entire lens, not just the bifocal portion. Basically ending up with prescription magnifying reading glasses. I wear those with one of my optivisors for carving and engraving and it works very well. Since this is a single-vision prescription, set in an inexpensive frame, the don't cost your first-born male child like bifocals do. I also choose safety glass, rather than the lighter plastics, for better scratch resistance since we're using so many abrasives in the studio. One hint, though - don't wander around the studio with these glasses, they only work for close carving! Don't ask why I know to warn you about this...
  6. Hi Tim, Bad news - the bearings are gone. High speed bearings of this type are sealed, oiling will just destroy the rest of the machine. You should be able to use it for any amount of time with fully functional bearings. More bad news - replacing bearings is expensive, but less than a new handpiece.
  7. Aloha Tom,

    Is this new?


  8. Thanks for the description of the "burning needle" Natasha. It looks very much like the type of woodburner I often use. I've never used it for antler or ivory, though. I'll have to try that!
  9. Hi Natasha, You mentioned using a "burning needle." Could you say some more about that? I'm not certain what you mean. Thanks,
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