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Henrik Y

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Everything posted by Henrik Y

  1. It says "stainless steel" No, I'm just joking but I think it's a Chinese casted vase. If it was hand made in japan it would have looked a lot better in the details and the sign in the bottom looks very much casted. This is how a real Japanese vase looks like and I think you'll see the difference in craftsmanship quality:
  2. I think I will name it Rudolf the Reindeer And this will be the finishing pics, I don't think I will do any more then cut the plate around it to a little rounder shape. High resolution picture
  3. It's a fat little reindeer
  4. Thanks! On the last link I found this interesting video clip http://www.sannenzaka-museum.co.jp/jyosetu_img/kinkou.wmv
  5. The pitch that I use is asphalt mixed with resin, turpentine, plaster and fat. And a little update.
  6. It got to large to fit good as a menuki But it didn't match the rest of the fittings so it doesn't matter, it will be an other practise piece lying around in my toolbox.
  7. Wow, that looks really cool. And I better check my blades and spray them with some "anti bug" protection
  8. Haha, thanks. Please teach me too
  9. I don't have any experience about this but I can share my thoughts. Stick to two types of metal, it should be easiest considering different melting points. If you use more the metal with the lowest melting point should(most logical) be between the other two(or more) types of metals, so that the metals of higher melting point don't touches because then they may not stick and if you should get that high in temp the "lower temp" metal will melt and may run away and ruin it all. Materials with clean flat surfaces fuses together easier under pressure so tightening them good and even should work best I think. And I've heard that with a "very" flat and clean surface and enough pressure you can fuse metals together in room temperature. So with better prepared pieces the lower temp you need. About the clamps to compress the billet I think you could use normal steel because the only touch the outer surface that you would grind of anyway so from that point of view it doesn't matter. If you have stainless it will warp and be more sensitive to heat and may crack in the cooling and things like that, and if you also have stainless bolts they most likely will get stuck when heated and you will have to cut them off. To work the material you can forge it with an hammer and anvil or/and use a roller or wire drawing plate.
  10. Wow, that looks so cool. Do you have any pics of the making process?
  11. Thanks Fred! First I trace the outline with a small round punch. Then I was thinking about doing what you said. But it feels a little safer now when you've confirmed the way to do it.
  12. I've started a thread about the menuki attempt: http://www.thecarvingpath.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=1545 Hyllyn: It covers my needs at the moment but later on I might rebuild it with a rim or something on top of it. But just having it on top like this is better for me because I want to be able to attach longer knife blades on it. I'm going to do a little of everything. First I'm going to work out the basic shape and then carve the small sharp details. Jim Kelso: "Do the Swedish usually just melt the pitch on top?" I have no idea but I didn't have any problems with it.
  13. Ok, this is my first try on this. I have no idea on what I'm doing but I'm still not total green on working with metal. A menuki is a little thing that's fits under the cord on the handle on Japanese swords. First pic.
  14. I will post more pics when I get my butane burner and can melt on the beck and start to work on something.
  15. I've seen a few pics on the webb where they had a metal half ball(don't know the name) with "beck"(I think it's same as the swedish name) on top or in a bowl. And I made one myself and want to show you some pics of it, if it could be of any interest. A wanted something heavier then a bowl so I made it in solid iron so I doesn't move when working on larger pieces. I cut out 4 circles from 20mm thick iron plate(scrap pieces) in the water jet cutter at work. Then I welded them together and after 2 hours with an angle grinder it was round and smooth and I think that I've saved a whole lot of money on making it myself.
  16. I've made a few engraving works and I made little practise piece on this particular pattern. I use small chisels that I've made and they are polished up to a few 1000 grit and continuously sharpened with a diamond tool. This is the first blade that I do this kind of work on. I'm also working on a blade with a fuller but that's a little more simple shape to polish. I've got the pics on the blades in the link on my computer for a long time so I know how it should look. And those who made those blades have probably been training as long as I've been living on this planet
  17. I'm working on a tanto that I've made a horimono on. But I don't know anything about it, just trying and hope for the best. I don't know what tools to use or techniques how to get it smooth and polished so if anyone here can give me some hints and tips I would be very happy.
  18. Hello! My name is Henrik Yngvesson and live in Sweden. I'm 23 years old and when I was 16 I started with forging in a forge made with a plate with holes in the bottom where a vacumcleaner was blowing air. Made a few arrowheads and knife looking creations. I've been working a few days/year as a helping hand in a small forge where I live and learned a little about forging and designs and stuff. I've made a couple of blades but it's only the last few years blades that I dare to show. I currently finished my studies to become a licensed welder and started working at a nuclear powerplant. I'm interested in a lot of crafting and have tried much of it but the things I do most is Japanese swords with all it's components and that's where the carving comes in. My other hobbies are music playing instruments, extreamsports, bicycletrials, cars, motorbikes etc. I've known this forum for a while and been visiting a few times.
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