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Everything posted by Janel

  1. Yes! Thanks Ford, that cropping really makes a difference for internet photos.
  2. Hi All, It is great that the TCP membership is so willing and able to share photos of work on the forum. There are several methods for posting one's photos. The main one is to attach a photo of the recommended size around 640 x 480 pixel size and 50 kb file size. A few contributors are finding a way to load images directly from their web site or photo storage sites. With this option, the file dimension and file size will not affect the forum's storage capacity. The drawbacks for this option are: 1. the larger images take longer to load for members with very slow modems (I am among them, at 26,400 bps on good days) to complete a single or multiple image contribution; and 2. if you change the storage site in any way that will alter the forum's connection to the off site image, the posted images will not appear in the posts, leaving great holes in the forum's image resources. So if you choose to use off site storage for images posted in TCP, be sure that it will remain available in the exactly same way into perpetuity. Also, remember to offer a friendly size to the forum, as in follow the 640 x 480 pixel size, 50 kb file size (approximate zone, O.K. to stretch a little guidelines), so that the members are able to enjoy a reasonable image loading speed. We TCP admin actually prefer that you would take the time to prepare the photos and attach them to TCP storage, so that the future image resources for the forum will remain whole and intact. Thank you for your willingness to share photographis images. Your efforts to do this multiplies the strength of the information you all share here on this great forum. Janel
  3. TCP has had a number of new members register lately. I have updated the world map with more new dots, but not all of the member's locations yet. Finding where you all live is fun for me. I would be happy to add your dot to the map, just PM me with where you live, and I will add a dot to the general area where you live. Janel
  4. I wonder if this comment thing remains and/or can be deleted? We'll see! I don't know if I like the fact that the visitors show up on a list. I wonder if you have a choice to be shown. I'll go to your profile and see.

  5. Yes. I did an upgrade to the forum software Friday night. The IPB/IPS system operators recommended it. It is a change we all have to get used to. Kind of a nuisance, but comes with current security levels from hackers. We have been hacked a couple of times in the past two years, which is a real bummer, so I decided to do it, but that does not make me like all of the changes yet.

  6. Hello H├┐llyn, I tried to get in the ball park. GoogleMaps was a bit vague. Let me know if it is closer than before. Thanks for the extra information.
  7. Six more dots were added today. Have a look and see if there is a dot in your approximate location. PM or Email your location to me, and I will get it added to the map. We are at about 1/5th of our TCP membership being represented on this map, and the world wide spread of members is awesome!
  8. Janel

    Posting Photos

    Thank you to each of you who strive to make your images fit the recommended sizes with pixel dimensions and KB file size. When detail is in danger of being lost with trying to fit the guidelines, it has to be ok to up the KB a bit to retain the detail, IMO. Going over a bit now and then is fine with me, I do it myself. What gets us into trouble is consistently going over by a huge amount, or causing the framework of the forum to go over size. I'll squeak when it needs to be pointed out to anyone. Thanks again for being aware and for doing the work to make the images fit. These images and illustrations make this forum a hugely valuable resource for the members.
  9. Still seeking locations of our members to add to the world map. If you PM me or Email me with it, I will add a dot on your approximate location. I added a dot for our new member from Finland today.
  10. I think that I cannot do that with this forum's software. I am not in control of the board format information. It could be interesting though. The map is a general representation of where the members are located, and keeps a sort of anonymity for everyone. Thanks for the suggestion. My location is rural, and the modem speed takes ten minutes for one M to up or download, so Google maps are very, very frustrating for me to use since they are very high file size. That is why I opted to have a web formatted JPEG which I can change simply when I have time to update it.
  11. Hello, (There is also a HELP option on this forum. There are helpful tips and topics there too.) Here are simplified instructions for posting photos: Click > Fast Reply (at the lower, right part of the topic window) Click > More Options (opens another window with more options to use) >Write your text and when ready to add the image(s) follow this route Click > Browse (goes to your hard drive files, select the image file, JPEG at about 640 x 480 pixel dimensions, 50 K file size) Select the image file Click > Add This Attachment- wait for it to load Select where you want the image to appear in your message Click > Add into Post (scroll down a little) Click > Add Reply *** Click > Go ***(click Add Reply first or the image and text will not be posted. If you click go first, click your back button to regain the text and image work page) I hope that this is helpful, Janel
  12. Still seeking locations of our members to add to the world map. If you PM me or Email me with it, I will add a dot on your approximate location.
  13. I want to keep the Where in the World? map at the top of the window so everyone can see the map when it opens. It will be closed to member additions, so when you have comments or additions, please place them in this topic. Thanks, Janel >->->->->->->->->->->->->->->->->->->->->->->->->->->->->->->->->->->->->->->->->->-> Moved from Where in the World? From Sergio, December 30, 2006 hi Janel, it's a good idea. I see we are comming from all the world to talk about our passion, it's fantastic. I hope to see more carvers and their works, it's very intrusting. Since i have seen this forum, my vision of carving change, i see more possibilitys to work, i find others inspirations, i'm very happy to discover carvers like you (Natasha, Sergey, Jim, etc....) and i work my english, "que demande le peuple!".
  14. Send me a PM or an Email with your location, and I will place a dot onto the map in the approximate area where you live. I have added about 100 more dots to the map, and have some more to go.
  15. Please use your real name when registering on The Carving Path forum. This community is made of a large group of diverse individuals from around the world. When you use your real name you are more of a real person to everyone. When you have a chance, add an avatar of yourself as well. Doing so will be the next closer step to having a face-to-face conversation with you! Thank you, Janel
  16. Blushing smiley, Thanks Don!
  17. Thank you! This is very interesting to see for variations used together. The subtle differences work well. The concept of opening the surface of the polished ivory, antler or perhaps even bone, to assist the material in accepting a degree of dye or stain is one to consider and experiment with. Acetic acid (I found mine in a photography supply store), around 32% strength, requires fresh air, and you should avoid splashing it on your skin or in your eyes. Experiment with a test piece of material, try submersion of a portion of a piece for 3-5 seconds, 10-more seconds, and upwards from there. The shortest times will open delicate pores in the gloss, the longer times will open larger pores in the gloss of the material. The stains will be accepted by the material by degrees relative to the length of time in the acid. It is strong stuff, so the minimum use for effect... Before the acid, clean the piece with finger nail polish (lacquer) remover (I am drawing a blank on the universal name of the stuff) to remove oils from your hands. Immerse the piece in the acid, count and remove, I use chop sticks (hashi). Rinse in water or even a baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) and then water. One may also use a brush to limit the location of the acid application. Use caution, and experiement on samples prepared to a finish gloss before committing a completed piece to the acid.
  18. The link which Ford posted was one I found as well, and thought it an interesting point to consider a mordant which one associates with fabric fiber dyeing, which might also be useful for coloring wood. Thanks Dan, that was an interesting page. The following url are from another site, which I have not explored further. One is a page that is in Japanese, but click on the links to see photographs. The second link is a photo of what I assume would be dedicated trees used for cutting the twigs for use, perhaps with a dyeing operation. This portion of the site was found by using "yashabushi" as a keword search term. Page of links tree photo
  19. Yashabushi is used to color ivory, and perhaps wood and fabric. Doug's hair ornament ivory was colored lightly with an alder cone dye. Natasha has asked questions about this dye, and has the Masatoshi book as a reference, as I do. There is a little written about the dye in the book about Masatoshi and his work. I would like this Forum Topic to explore what we know about yashabushi, what plant source with common and scientific names, collection/time of year, preparation of the dye solution, preparation of the materials prior to dying, and relating any experiences you are willing to share. Thanks for putting on your thinking caps. Janel
  20. Janel


    Hi Tassos, Those two tools are my main tools (once I've gotten in to the defining stage), but in sizes ranging from needles to 1/4" diameter. Good choices to start with (IMO). Stephen Myhre's tools are great and are very versatile. I've used a wet cloth and a container of water nearby to dip into to keep the steel cooler while using a power wheel for shaping. The wet cloth absorbs some of the heat and frequent disengagement for cooling helps too. What's next? Have fun! Janel
  21. Hi all, I am just posting a message to bring this topic higher up in the queue so that newer members can find this easier. It is good to know this information, to bring the file sizes down to 50 k, pixel dimensions to 640 x 480, and 72 dpi for resolution. Just a reminder. You've all been doing a good job of this. New members need to know this. Janel
  22. With what I know about the subject, I will try to explain how to resize an image to the suggested file size for the forum: (I use an iMac, the terms might be a little different if you are using a PC) The sample image: sample1.jpg Make sure you are working with a "copy" of the file you want to alter, so that you have the original to refer back to if you want to use it in another way later. Rename the copy to a name that means something to you in the overall scheme of data you are keeping. Perhaps if it is going to be used for the web, add "underscore w" or _w at the end of what already exists, meaning that it is for the web. (sample1.jpg_w.jpg) You may already have a scheme for this naming need. Open the image in Photoshop (I am using Photoshop CS) In the menu go to Image>Image Size In the Image Size information box you will see: (My numbers are a sample only) Pixel Dimensions 11.1M Width: 2272 pixels Height: 1704 pixels Document Width: 7.573 (inches) Height: 5.68 (inches) Resolution: 300 Select- Scale Styles Select- Constrain Proportions (this one should be checked for sure, it keeps the width and height proportional) Select- Resample image >Scale styles and resample image, I do not know about, but are checked on my window... Change the resolution to 72 Pixels/inch In the Pixel Dimensions: Change the width/height to: Width: 640 pixels Height: 480 (Constrained Proportions will change the second number automatically.) Document Size should change automatically as well. You will see that the file size has dropped to 900.0K. Click OK. The image size will be adjusted. You may need to save the image as a JPEG, which may have been originally another format. File>Save As Format: select JPEG > JPEG Image Options Quality: Maximum (12) [on my software] > OK Now, to save this JPEG image for the web, go to the menu: File>Save For Web Select: JPEG Quality: adjust this amount to the point where pixelation (speckley edges) just begins, raise the number a few percentage points until the edges clear up. Click the Optimized check mark off and on again, which will signal the optimizing to occur. Then: Look under the picture (on a 2-Up view) the right image file-size information (at the bottom left of that image) should read at or under 50 K. Attain this limit by adjusting the Quality amount until satisfied with the image quality and getting near the 50 K file size. Click SAVE A navigation window opens. Rename the image here, if you need to, I added the _w (underscore w) after the "sample1" and selected the folder where I wanted it to be stored, somewhere that makes sense when I want to find it for addition to the forum or other web use. Now the dimensional and file sizes have been reduced and can be added to the forum message when you are composing your contribution. (When the newly resized image is opened in Photoshop its file size reads larger than what I see as its size when looking at it in my finder detail report. Photoshop must store more information about it when it is open in Photoshop. I do not know the answer to that yet...I know some but not all...) I hope that this is helpful to you. Please let me know how to correct this procedure or what to add to this to make it work better. Janel
  23. Janel


    Ah-ha! Thanks Jim! Where does one find the HSS hi speed stock? I have used the smooth end of high speed drill bits, is that the same kind of material? (Again, my lack of knowledge about metals leaves me clueless... ) Janel
  24. Janel


    Hi Jim, One of my main tools has two flat faces and one curved face. The image is a repeat from another message. The bottom left tool is the largest of that style, all the rest are smaller, to 1/8th inch diameter. The tip is not further beveled for strength, nor are the tips of the smaller ones. Of the smaller ones, one has an acute angle tip the other has a wider angle tip, and are used differently for undercutting and pushing to outline or cut grooves. The latter may be more like a graver when pushed, I would imagine. I look forward to seeing the image of your tool(s). Janel
  25. Janel


    In the Scrapers topic, Robert Weinstock and Janel were beginning to discuss gravers: JJ: I am very short on knowing the vernacular for metal working tools. I can guess what a graver is, but would like to know for sure what it is and its intended use, and what do you mean "gravers with no heel", what is a heel? Do they have varying kinds of shapes, uses and attributes? RW: Gravers are a push type tool for cutting metal. I'll post some photos when I get some taken. They come in many shapes and sizes, and I make many of my own. Most engravers will talk about putting a heel on their gravers. It refers to the way the point is sharpened. My gravers have no heel. In other words, The bottom side of the tool is flat or staight to the point. Having a heel would mean that the bottom of the tool has a bevel sharpened on it. Not have a heel on my gravers forces me to angle the tool lower. A heel allows the engraver to hold his graver at a higher angle. I get around the angle problem with a tool that I rest my graver on and use it as a fulcrum (I'll send pictures). For me, it wouldn't be practical to sharpen a heel on every graver, because I have more than a hundred gravers in different shapes and sizes, and it would be impractical to sharpen a heel on them each time I sharpen them. An engraver might use a single tool for most of his work, so it's a little different. JJ: Have you made your gravers? What sort of metal do you use? Do you add handles?... I hope to have more discussion and contributions from the carvers about this family of tools. If possible, please support your messages with images. Thanks, Janel
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