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Everything posted by Janel

  1. What I see right off is that you are paying attention to the line of the curves, making them flow smoothly. I appreciate that very much. The energy of movement in the curves is not interrupted. You may start "seeing" and interpreting into new pieces as technique becomes second nature with these early pieces. I look forward to seeing where you go with your interests. Janel
  2. Janel

    Auzzie in Japan

    Hi Marcus, Welcome! We have one member, Ed Twilbeck, who works in a very small set up for carving. He has posted images of it. The most important thing is to manage the dust. Some folks work outside, others set up a gentle suction/filter arrangement to pull the dusts away from the face and work space. There are various ways to do that. One set up I saw in Japan was a box fan with a filter and cloth on its front, set facing the carving space to blow the cleaned air out and away from the bench. Some carvers have a drawer beneath the bench and a modest sized hole with a wire grid covering it. The drawer is then connected to the suction/filter device of choice, and the dusts are drawn away from the face and hands. The second most important thing is to keep tools sharp. Also if you are using a power tool, wear eye protection. And hearing protection if the motor is loud. I am one for using hand tools most of the time, but the first hours of bulk waste removal is by power tool. So, asking questions and pursuing the answers by applying what you have learned from others and doing things yourself might just hook you. Such work can be very satisfying. Best wishes, Janel
  3. Hi again, Do you know about Steve Lindsay's Engraving Forum? http://www.engravingforum.com/
  4. Hi David, Thank you for the in depth introduction. It is good to meet you and to see the degree of care and excellence in your jewelry. I am pleased that you continue to seek to learn new things. I can only try to imagine the challenges you will face when meeting and carving jade, and look forward to seeing what happens with it. What fine craft shows are you doing these days? Janel
  5. Hi, Just guessing here ... are there any bead shops for folks who like to string beads? Waxed linen is often available in such places. Janel
  6. There might be an archival spray acrylic for artwork preservation that has a UV protective element in it. I am unable to go to the studio to find it, but begin searching for such a thing. I may have found it at Blick art supplies. Janel
  7. Sorry Jim, the forum has not been a lively place for some time. Was the curly maple more challenging to carve because of the irregular grain? I can barely wrap my head around figuring out a simple mobius, but I have done at least a couple of them. Trying to do a quad with heart shapes almost hurts my brain and eyes to begin to imagine cutting it from the wood and having it all meet up, with the twist in there somewhere. I have already forgotten your intro, are you a trained gem stone cutter? That gem above has quite a lot of facets. I'll bet that in bright, full spectrum light that it is quite a sparkler. Janel
  8. Cool! Thank you for explaining that to me. I met an impact chisel a few years ago, but was too nervous to study how it was made. I was given the demo and then was handed the tool and some copper, and loved the experience but did not do really well with it.
  9. Hi Jim, When I asked "how does it work" I should have been more specific. Is this a rotary tool or an impact chisel sort of tool? Is this a flex shaft sort of connection to the base? Questions like that about what I cannot see from the image. I am glad that it works for you! Janel
  10. Hi Jim, How does it work? Yes, the image size is fine. It could actually be a bit larger dimension: - 72 dpi - JPEG works great - around 640 x 480 pixel dimension - and around 50-100 kb file size (this info is found at or near the top of each forum area)
  11. Hi Jim, Try this online resizer: http://webresizer.com/resizer/ Janel
  12. Hi Matt, Yes, a bench vise is useful when first sawing. I also was eventually convinced to purchase a band saw. It scares me, which is a good thing, but it also saves time and muscle fatigue when trying to cut a 4" diameter boxwood hunk into netsuke sized pieces. Rough on the blade, but it has been helpful. ALWAYS remember to keep your fingers away from the blade space. I have a zone that is about four inches on either side of the blade that has broad diagonal lines (marker needs re-doing at times) to remind me of the zone. I have a notched 1x2 length of wood that is used for pushing the wood, and I also have wood clamps when a piece needs to be grasped instead of just pushed through the cut. It takes planning but I still have all of my fingers intact. Janel
  13. Thank you Matt for linking to that video. It is an old one, my tools have evolved from that time. The thumb as fulcrum basic action is used with my newer tools as well.
  14. Hi JIm, I am constantly amazed at the ways that resourceful minds work when solving problems, such as the tool you created from a variety of parts that were not meant at first to work together! Well done, I must say. Janel
  15. Tom, there are topics and posts from past years that discuss tool making of tools that work for the materials you are using. My own tools will work for dense hard woods, bone, mammoth tusk, amber and horn. Some materials dull the tools faster than others. I will see what SEARCH term might bring up useful links ... try : tool making Lots of things show up, and you can spread out from there. Janel
  16. Here is an earlier post about the toothpick tools: http://www.thecarvingpath.net/forum/index.php?/topic/2868-whats-on-your-bench/#comment-23624
  17. I use poster-tacky stuff, the white kind, pressed onto the carving peg on my bench. Other times, I use a leather, sand-filled bag. Both methods require holding on to the piece while carving. The carving peg alone, or the tacky stuff or the sand bag each backs up the piece so that one can push the tools without doing complete isometric exercises. Hope these help: Old photo of poster tacky stuff in use: Against a sand bag: Bench support: Janel
  18. I have avoided sanding papers lower than 400 grit. My usual approach is to use certain of my tools as finish scrapers to gently plane of a whisper of fibers until the surface is just about right. The tool must be very well sharpened, and as you pointed out above, no dings or irregularities in the edge, or it will show on the surface of the material. If the material and the subject needs to be more highly polished then I will use micromesh cloths to bring a gloss to the material. On occasion I will use 400-600-1000-1200-1500-200-2500 grit wet/dry sanding papers. I also use toothpic-sanders as shown to me by Cornel Schenider - angle cut a round toothpick, and glue on a tiny rectangle of sand paper to the ends. I use the above grits, as well as lower ones. To keep them identified and separate, I have marked each pick with the corresponding colors and or line that indicate the color system that I use to keep the pieces of sanding papers separated in divided containers. I use old film containers, which might now be a thing of the past with the digital photography age upon us now. The picks are used in tiny spaces and on tight edges that would not work for the shaving action of the smoothing tools. Hope this helps. Janel
  19. Hi, I am trying to help a member to find where on TCP a particular topic that a member is striving to find in the archives. He states: "When I joined I found in the searches that I made, a set of images that depicted a carving station that was ingenious yet simple. I can no longer seem to locate said collection of postings. It was simply a Plastic pallet set upon the top of a Rubbermaid 35ish gallon trash can with a recirc pump set up in the bottom...etcetera." We would very much appreciate extra help on this search, with our thanks for your efforts! Janel
  20. Hello August! Welcome to the forum. Janel
  21. Hi, As admin/owner of the forum, I am responsible for paying the fees to keep the forum on line for all viewers and participants to use and learn from. The fees are going up, mostly because of the full size images that have been posted in the past. The monthly fee has been $30, and the next step up will be $45 per month. This is making it hard for me to bear the costs alone to simply maintain the database for almost no evidence of participation by members. Are there generous souls amongst the readers and members who might help keep the forum available to all by sharing in the costs required to keep the forum on line? If yes, please PM me or email me and we can discuss options privately. Thank you, Janel PS: please when you post images, follow the guidelines that appear at the head of each forum area. Thank you.
  22. Janel

    Newbie from Japan

    Welcome to you, Martin! What inspired you to learn to carve manju netsuke? Janel
  23. Cologne Netsuke Convention June 06, 2017 Dear Carving Colleagues, With the Cologne INS netsuke convention only a few months away, some exciting arrangements for a "Carvers meet Collectors Evening" are currently being developed. If you are a carver attending the INS convention and would like to participate in such an event please reply to the following thread...http://forums.netsuke.org/viewtopic.php?f=445313&p=69193#p69193 or email me privately so that numbers can be determined and participation coordinated. All are welcome. Kindest regards, Clive Hallam
  24. NPR (National Public Radio) broadcast an interview and netsuke carving demonstration with Komada Ryushi from the Smithsonian Institution's Freer and Sackler Galleries this week. Komada Makiko, Ryushi's daughter, served as interpreter during their conversation with NPR's Maureen Pao. Watch the half hour video, Watch master carver Ryushi Komada at work, with NPR's Maureen Pao. Ryushi demonstrates the way the tools are held and used with small scraping motions.
  25. Hi Heidi, You might try screwing in an angle bracket on the wall in approximately the place that it should be. It might need to be changed a bit once you have given some time to using the tool. Having a whole wall in front of you has lots of potential beyond the magnetic strip, which by the way is quite a good idea! I have a ledge and windows, so everything goes left or right or underneath the bench, or elsewhere entirely. Janel
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