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Jason Tweedie

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Everything posted by Jason Tweedie

  1. Your comments are appreciated Debbie. I agree not all sharp things are dangerous! The little fish is the toggle to this pendant. Cheers, Jason
  2. Cheers Michael...I will send you an email. Jason
  3. Thanks Janel and Billy, the fangs are Chinese Bowenite that have been carved to fit.
  4. Very organic form Janel...excellent!
  5. Hi all, about time I posted something too...it has been a bit quiet on TCP lately. Cheers Jason
  6. Welcome Michael....well cut twists...that green Nephrite looks gemmy! Jason
  7. Hi Russ and Tom, the best way to make sure you sand all areas of a translucent stone is to cover it with black permanent marker, let this dry then begin sanding...you will soon see the areas that need work as the pen goes into all the 'nooks and crannies' don't stop until all the black is gone! Cheers, Jason
  8. Hi Kenneth, Just thought I would keep you in the loop. ... but there is a phenomena happening, where the world is joining Facebook, lots of artists of all types and many from this site are posting their work and chatting. See Brian Matheson's post in the Events/2011 Jade Symposium. This will keep you busy all day....and maybe night! Cheers, Jason
  9. Janel, you have a fine touch with wood. I like the way the ears sit on rabbits back and the grain orientation in that piece. Jason
  10. Hi Quinn, Danny looks like he has worked out a way to get a good full polish on his stones using the diamond powders/pastes and he has polished a lot more stones than me...I'm sure there are several solutions. I will try his way with the wooden drums and a bristle brush at some stage. It's basically about a process of sanding, going through the range of grits 400 - 3000 removing all the scratches from the previous grit (clean up the piece and tools after each grit) until a molecular change occurs where the scratches are so fine you can't see them with the naked eye. Easier said than done he says!! Yep that's right, this is a patience game where skipping ahead won't work what ever method is used. If you think you have all the scratches out at 3000 diamond you could then try going to 2000 then 3000 grit silicone carbide sandpaper wrapped around rubber drums or sticks, dowels etc to get a pre-polish. Do this process dry and you will soon have a good shine. (Using a quality face-mask and dust extractor of course as the fine particles from dry sanding are toxic). Water can be used at this stage too. I don't often like things too reflective and polished, but to get a full-polish I use: 1. Diamond grinding wheel, burrs and point carver for shaping 2. Silicone carbide rubbings sticks to refine shape 3. 3M diamond cloth 400, 600, 1200 with water (sanding in multiple directions) and sometimes diamond paste and hardwood sticks in hard to get places 4. Silicone Carbide (wet and dry) Sandpaper 800, 1200, 2000, 3000 (sanding in multiple directions, wet then dry for the 800, 1200 and just dry at 2000 and 3000 for a pre-polish) 5 Tin Oxide and water slurry on soft leather around drums, with heat and pressure (like Kenneth's but no diamond) when it pulls on the piece it's polished! Just keep moving in all directions until it pulls on all surfaces. The work area and piece must be spotless for this process. This is probably the old-school way, but seems to work on a lot of different materials. Even though I have tried a lot of the expensive diamond technologies out there, I find I often come back to a simple piece of sandpaper in my hand. Each stone is a different beast...I have never tried for a full polish on obsidian, but the 3000 grit sandpaper certainly gets it very close. As I have heard said here before some stones just don't want to polish at all or have too many inclusions (hard and soft areas) so we just have to stop and be satisfied at the stage we think the stone looks it's best. We all also have our rejects pile!! Good luck in your stone sanding meditations. Jason
  11. Jason Tweedie

    Welcome Back!

    Hi Janel, I wondered what was going on when I tried to get to TCP today, kept coming up with Gator Host login page? I finally got around it by doing a new google search on TCP then clicked on one of the results, this got me back into the forum. This may help others who have the same issue. Jason.
  12. Jason Tweedie


    Maha, use a little piece of Blue Tac to hold the inlay, and to remove it if it gets stuck....it's very useful stuff. Jason
  13. Hey Rhys, maybe Sharon knows where he is. Jas
  14. Hey Billy, No one has commented on the great piece you have created here....the first thing I thought was dagger handle, I can see it with a nice quality Pounamu blade. Cheers, Jas
  15. Jason Tweedie

    Kia Ora

    Kia Ora Rhys, Welcome mate...at long last you have done it...Jamie and Andy should be here too!! Bad news about Christchurch....Do you think our Exhibition will go ahead in September? Luv that Tiki!!! Cheers, Jas
  16. Janel, thanks for pointing that typo out...it really does change the meaning..it is now fixed. Cheers, Jason
  17. Natasha, Robert and Chris thanks for the great compliments. Natasha, the Carp you recently posted was brilliant, so much character with exceptional details....I really liked it in the initial carved state too! (before the scales etc) thanks for that tip for carving scales in horn...I have a jade fish/eel/serpent critter almost complete, I will post soon. Robert, I enjoyed your mini dagger...a relic from the pixies or faries? Chris, Nice effort at your first Jade carving....you have got the knack of holding good lines without losing the details in the sanding process....good idea getting rid of the high polish (as you say, too many reflections, but a lot of people luv it)...good jade really does get that gloss/watery effect very easy, the challenge is to keep a nice satin finish like the ancient Chinese and Meso-american cultures. One burr I use a lot, and a lot of commercial carvers do most of their roughing out with, is the straight cylinder around 5-8mm dia (the slightly inverted cone-{pic1sintered] you have in your post will work too) you can use the side, edge and the face (pushing into the piece), holding the burr at the right angle you can carve two sides at once, achieving the ridges and channels like your black jade piece. (its just like a mini grinding wheel )....the faster you can rotate a burr the smoother it will carve hard stone (eg 40,000 - 50,000) but easy on the speed slowly to avoid the burr bending at right angles and munching your fingers and piece. (I don't think your foredom will do those speeds) when possible move up to a NSK micomotor or NSK air-handpiece they are expensive but open up a new world in the realm of carving...less vibration, solid sealed bearings, high speed and good torque...hard stone carving has no mercy on your tools. I agree with you about the value of material...as in the "eye of the beholder" as long as it looks nice and solid enough to carve I'm into it, the $$$s are the last thing on the list....unfortunately for a lot of us artists, thats what brings us undone in this crazy commercialised world. Right now I am out looking for another office job to keep the funds rolling in...times are tough! lol The one tip that is essential to hard stone carvers that I have not seen mentioned anywhere is "to sand in as many different directions as possible through all the different grits and the polishing stage" this helps to distribute the light refraction more evenly and is the only way to remove any stubborn scratches (it also helps to prevent the orange-peeling effect), sanding in one direction like with wood does'nt work with stone. Jason
  18. Thanks for the fantastic feedback on that piece... Mike: luv your latest knife...it looks efficient and very connected to the flow of the sea. Billy: Your work has the power of ancient legends. Danny: Like you I luv the fire stones, the opals and agates. Been meaning to contribute to the gemstone threads you guys have had going, but most questions have been answered. The one that keeps coming up time and again I have noticed is "How do you make carving gemstones quick and easy" and like you have said...there is no "quick and easy" with stone....its just patience, determination and a lot of hand sanding. Maha; Anything is possible with GEM quality Pounamu (NZ Jade) although it dosen't have the translucency of crystal opal. I have had a couple of goes at bone...but I don't dig the smell of the dust...but it seems like a very flexible medium and it is possible to cut it like wood giving better details, rather than the grinding process of stone. Cheers all, Jason
  19. Hi Maha, At this stage the name is just "Liz" I imagine it will get a better name when the time is right. I am originally from NZ and have been carving for around 15 years, mainly in wood, but have concentrated on Hard Stone in the last 5-6 years. I enjoy any medium that has the right qualities for carving eg tight grain, translucence, colour etc but gem quality Nephrite/Pounamu (NZ Jade) is a joy to carve...it is also very hard to get a hold of! I have a website: www.jasontweediejade.com where you can see some of my past work. Cheers, Jason
  20. Thanks Janel, your kind words are much regarded, like you love the curling forms nature inspires us with. I was quite happy with the outcome, considering the low grade material. I do like the blues and oranges it gets when cut thin. Opal is a challenge to work as it is quite soft and brittle compared to Jade and other hard stone, so i did loose the occasional edge or corner in the making. I don't have another photo sorry as I was in a hurry at the time....but you may be wondering...I have not fully undercut the front face from the inner one, just an undercut line/edge was enough to give the impression of space. This was so the cylinder could remain totally enclosed to give the piece some strength. Cheers, Jason
  21. Hi All, Thought I would post this piece as it's been a while since the last. Have had a rib and hip injury keeping my from creating, but am slowly starting to come good. The material is Australian Crystal Opal from Lightning Ridge, not very valuable opal with only a touch of fire, but large enough to extract a twisted form of a reasonable size 6(h) x 2.5(w) x 2(d) cms. Some more Jade pieces almost complete and they will be coming soon. Cheers Jason
  22. Kia ora Maha, Cute workmates...there will be mischief to come! Just took a photo of my new workmate too (Water Dragon...look like a Tuatara Aye)! You would think I don't feed it! He moved in after the floods we just had here in Brisbane....damn shame about the disaster in Christchurch too. Cheers, Jason
  23. Hi Folks, thanks for the positive feedback on my site. Janel: Thank you for giving us the carving path and good advice!!!. Natasha: I'm always amazed at your work, even though I don't often leave feedback. Shane, glad you enjoyed....the Olive Green/Blue OZ Jade is from Tammworth in NSW...unfortunatey he only sells his stone to the Chinese and Americans...makes you wonder aye? I've given up trying to source any material from him...shame that! Lucky there's still other beautiful material left on this planet. Cheers, Jason
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