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Devon Thibeault

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About Devon Thibeault

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  • Birthday 01/19/1967

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  • Location
    Cambridge, Massachusetts
  • Interests
    Woodworking, carving, woodturning, blacksmithing, tool-making, knife-making, jewelry making, leather working, sewing.
  1. Devon Thibeault

    Understanding Wood Finishing

    That's a fantastically useful book. I've used it as a reference for years. Many people usually recommend Jeff Jewitt's "Great Wood Finishes", but having read both, I prefer Bob Flexner. I find him easier to comprehend, more thoughtful in how he writes, and more complete in explaining techniques.
  2. Devon Thibeault

    Gouges Sharpened Wrong

    In-cannel gouges were actually pretty common in the old days. One of there biggest uses was in being hammered straight into the wood to set the outline of something like the inside of a curve. If you attempted this with a gouge sharpened in the traditional manner, the gouge pulls away from your mark as wood breaks in the direction of least resistance. When you try the same cut with an in-cannel gouge, the bevel pushes the gouge into your line, against solid wood, which then deflects the force of the cut so that the tools cuts straight down. This type of gouge in invaluable to timber framers and shipwrights, who had to cut round mortices for large pegs. A normal gouge would be incapable of cutting a straight walled channel, since the bevel would keep the cutting edge well away from the wood to be cut. The in-cannel gouge, by contrast, puts the cutting edge directly over the wood that needs to be cut, allowing for channel as deep as the gouge is long. Oh, the long-bladed gouges used by timber framers and shipwrights are called firmer gouges and came in regular and in-cannel bevels: not to be confused with what is being passed off as firmer gouges today with blades (when new) half the length that they use to be. The well used gouges above are noticeably longer than the "catalog photo" brand new one's bellow. The socket blade also made it easier to replace a broken handle (which will happen sooner or later) on the job site. Sorry, I'm all for innovation and modernization, but only if it actually improves something.
  3. Devon Thibeault

    Be Jealous Of My Tiny Router

    You know, Dremel makes a router base for those rotary tools. Just kidding. That looks a hell of a lot more accurate than what Dremel makes. Great job. Dan, it looks like you are like me - you either can't stand to spend money on something you can make yourself, enjoy making your own tools, or a combination of both. You and I should get our heads together on a project some day.
  4. Devon Thibeault

    Corian Grinding For Inlay

    Ah, you were looking for bits much coarser than I realized. I'll get photos of the sander when I can (probably in a week or 3) and do a more detailed explanation of how it's built.
  5. Devon Thibeault

    Corian Grinding For Inlay

    I'll take a stab at answering this. I haven't tried to do this per se, but I can imagine a couple things that might work. First, you need to set up something to "collect" the dust/debris. A disk sander, belt sander, or a router will make short work of the material. Depending on how large you want the chunks to be, the router will probably work best, since corian is a plastic and will melt a bit and gum up the sanding disk/belt if you let it get too hot from friction. Some years ago I set up a small disk sander to catch dust from various materials for my godfather by attaching a low horse power motor to a hinged base so that it could tip up to empty a plexiglass box that sits under the sanding platform. The sanding disk sits with almost the entire lower half inside the plexiglass box so that almost all the dust collects inside of the box. To retrieve the dust, you unlock and tilt the motor, disk, and platform out of the way and simply lift out the plexiglass box. The courser the sanding disk, the courser the particles you end up with, but you will get minute traces of the fractured sanding abrasives in your particles. Alternatively, you could use a course file if you don't mind the elbow grease. Advantages - no loud motors or sanding abrasives in your dust. I'd recommend a file designed for plastics, such as laminates. The teeth are formed differently and won't clog up as quickly with plastics. Don't forget to use a file card or steel wire brush to clean the file as soon as it does start clogging. If you let the clogs pack into the teeth, you'll be picking them out with a dental pick or (worse) ruin the file. Last method that comes to mind, since you mentioned a lathe in your previous post, clean up well around your lathes. Then mount a piece of corian between centers or however you are comfortable doing it, and turn it into bits with a sharp bowl gouge at slow speeds. Remember, this is similar to face plate turning, not spindle turning, so spindle or roughing gouges would not be safe to use. Alternatively, scrapers should work as well. Just don't get to aggressive or it could shatter. I'd also recommend cutting it into rounds about 6" or smaller so that there is less deflection and chattering in the piece as you press against it. And remember, just because you don't see deflection doesn't mean that it's not there. A spinning piece, even at slow speeds, can deflect about 1/32 of an inch without being visible - more than enough for a very nasty catch.
  6. Devon Thibeault

    Air turbine vs micromotor

    Seriously, if you are cycling an 80 gallon compressor ~6 minutes using an NSK Presto, something is wrong. That's about what I cycle the compressor (an 80 gallon) in my shop using a die grinder at 100 psi and a Presto uses almost no air by comparison to a die grinder. What psi are you running the Presto at? I don't have one, but I know the recommended psi is 35-38. If you are running it at 90 psi (which is what most people have their regulators set to normally), that would also explain why you blew through a set of bearings prematurely. That's the equivalent of running a motor at something like 3-4 times it's maximum speed - something's going to give.