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Andrew V

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About Andrew V

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  • Birthday 03/21/1968

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    http://stuckinthemudsite.wordpress.com/

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    near Cardiff, UK

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  1. Andrew V

    New year

    Happy New Year everybody! Still alive, still wood-working, hoping to do some actual carving soon, starting to twitch from a lack of carving time!!
  2. hollow, well, filled with a useless pith you will need to remove, suggest you soften it with warm water
  3. Depends on which part of the antler I am working. The disk at the end where it joins the skull is good for netsuke but is very hard and responds well to scrapers, the stem of the antler, all the antler really has a useless soft core (pith) which you must remove - it is so soft that you can flood it with warm water and scrape it out with a spoon, This leaves the wall of the antler which is a dream to carve, and which you can carve with standard wood-carving tools as well as scrapers - I have a pin-board of carved antler and bone items, mostly bone items, and none of them by me, but it does show what is possible. https://www.pinterest.co.uk/avenuew/carved-antler-and-bone/ The stems cannot be heat-formed and so lend themselves to tubular forms - traditionally, needle cases, salt cellars, powder horns. If you use a palmate antler - moose or fallow deer for instance, the palms are great for relief carvings - I split the palm and make carved inlays which are only about 1.5 mm thick, many medieval 'ivory' carvings are in fact antler. The palms can be heat-formed, up to a point, are flexible, up to a point, but can snap without warning if you get clumsy with them or they dry out too much. Biggest down-side is it can be difficult to colour, it resists many stains and is translucent. This translucency can make for an interesting carving experience if your eyes are tired or your lighting is wrong. Biggest upside - it accepts the very finest of detail in a way even box-wood doesn't; it is astonishing how fine you can carve it
  4. sweet; might try something like that in antler.......
  5. Andrew V

    Fall

    Need to stir my stumps a bit, lots of stuff on the go with work and wood-work, really need to choose something small to chip away at by the dining table when the workshop gets too cold for bows and cross-bows. I'll be sure to post when I do carve something suitable
  6. I found that putting a wax on before fine sanding really helps with difficult grain; it acts a bit like a sanding sealer but also lubricates the surface under the paper making the process that bit easier, although the wastage on the paper increases significantly as the wax clogs it up quite quickly. Lovely little carving though, I like at as a pendant, but it might make one half of a pair of ear-rings.........
  7. I like that a lot, the leaf is such a nice touch!
  8. Very nice work, what finish did you use on the cow bone? Andrew
  9. That is just the most beautiful work, absolutely stunning, very inspiring! Thank you for posting. Andrew
  10. Can't help with that I'm afraid, haven't worked with deer bone.
  11. I have found antler readily soaks up water and readily dries out. That buttery quality is easily restored with an overnight soak. Also, the pith goes soggy when soaked and that is a good indicator of what you need to get rid of.
  12. I have read that book more than once, its very good, up to a point. The white inlays are bone, the black are water buffalo horn, the carved inlays are antler.
  13. Be brave about removing the pith, its completely useless, and you should carve away as much as you dare to. It goes so soft when soaked in water you can even cut it away with a spoon. Also, antler takes the most incredible level of detail and is easily worked with standard wood carving gouges as well as scrapers. 😉
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