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Andrew V

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Everything posted by Andrew V

  1. very nice, good work that, I like it
  2. Hi Janel, The sheath is apple-wood. Thank you for the kumihimo reference, they look really interesting but the bead hole is only 2mm across, would a pair of kumihimo fit?
  3. The carving is done, the sheath is finished with Danish oil tinted with artists umber oil paint. I spent a while making the ojime from antler tip but the netsuke I carved a few years back and has sat in a box ever since. Anyine able to advise on an authentic string plait I should use?
  4. Umm, what is the level of technology available in your universe? So, a rasp and saw with various scrapers is all you would need, plus a drill; no it does not smell like death unless you are using power tools, and even then it doesn't get past unpleasant, Any bone can be worked but the shapes you describe would need a large leg-bone, cattle or large deer. Assembly lines are a good idea. White powder does not go everywhere, even with power tools.
  5. what will you be fixing the vice to? I am a cheap-skate. My bench is a re-cycled ledge and brace door, I fixed an inherited carpenters flush vice to it, I mounted a 4x4 post (chest-height) onto a corner of it that I can screw a variety of holders to - usually scraps cut to the right shape for holding whatever I am carving - I usually screw bits and bobs directly to my 'bench' to hold whatever I am carving, sometimes some well-placed nails and peg in the vice winding the work piece to push against the nails works really well - small in-the-round carvings do not always work well with a vice. And yes, this is not best practice, and yes it damages your bench but I use mine every day and after 20 years it is still going strong. Do whatever works for you, but I would go with a flush-fit vice, not an engineers vice (mine is in a bag under the bench - I dismounted it 10 years ago as it was in the way, never even missed it) The vital thing is the height of your bench - it must be the correct height - you establish this by standing elbows at side, hands held out at 90 degrees, palm down, the palms should brush the top of your bench. If you are more than 5'3" your bench will need to be higher than a standard work bench if you stand to work.
  6. Very loosely inspired by ainu makiri, I thought my favourite whittling knife deserved a decent sheath, its not finished yet by any means, I'm in for about 30 hours so far, about another 10 before I'm done.
  7. Maybe not but a lovely piece of work all the same
  8. Wow, that is stunning, thanks for posting it
  9. Andrew V

    New year

    Happy New Year everybody! Still alive, still wood-working, hoping to do some actual carving soon, starting to twitch from a lack of carving time!!
  10. hollow, well, filled with a useless pith you will need to remove, suggest you soften it with warm water
  11. Depends on which part of the antler I am working. The disk at the end where it joins the skull is good for netsuke but is very hard and responds well to scrapers, the stem of the antler, all the antler really has a useless soft core (pith) which you must remove - it is so soft that you can flood it with warm water and scrape it out with a spoon, This leaves the wall of the antler which is a dream to carve, and which you can carve with standard wood-carving tools as well as scrapers - I have a pin-board of carved antler and bone items, mostly bone items, and none of them by me, but it does show what is possible. https://www.pinterest.co.uk/avenuew/carved-antler-and-bone/ The stems cannot be heat-formed and so lend themselves to tubular forms - traditionally, needle cases, salt cellars, powder horns. If you use a palmate antler - moose or fallow deer for instance, the palms are great for relief carvings - I split the palm and make carved inlays which are only about 1.5 mm thick, many medieval 'ivory' carvings are in fact antler. The palms can be heat-formed, up to a point, are flexible, up to a point, but can snap without warning if you get clumsy with them or they dry out too much. Biggest down-side is it can be difficult to colour, it resists many stains and is translucent. This translucency can make for an interesting carving experience if your eyes are tired or your lighting is wrong. Biggest upside - it accepts the very finest of detail in a way even box-wood doesn't; it is astonishing how fine you can carve it
  12. sweet; might try something like that in antler.......
  13. Andrew V

    Fall

    Need to stir my stumps a bit, lots of stuff on the go with work and wood-work, really need to choose something small to chip away at by the dining table when the workshop gets too cold for bows and cross-bows. I'll be sure to post when I do carve something suitable
  14. I found that putting a wax on before fine sanding really helps with difficult grain; it acts a bit like a sanding sealer but also lubricates the surface under the paper making the process that bit easier, although the wastage on the paper increases significantly as the wax clogs it up quite quickly. Lovely little carving though, I like at as a pendant, but it might make one half of a pair of ear-rings.........
  15. I like that a lot, the leaf is such a nice touch!
  16. Very nice work, what finish did you use on the cow bone? Andrew
  17. That is just the most beautiful work, absolutely stunning, very inspiring! Thank you for posting. Andrew
  18. Can't help with that I'm afraid, haven't worked with deer bone.
  19. I have found antler readily soaks up water and readily dries out. That buttery quality is easily restored with an overnight soak. Also, the pith goes soggy when soaked and that is a good indicator of what you need to get rid of.
  20. I have read that book more than once, its very good, up to a point. The white inlays are bone, the black are water buffalo horn, the carved inlays are antler.
  21. Be brave about removing the pith, its completely useless, and you should carve away as much as you dare to. It goes so soft when soaked in water you can even cut it away with a spoon. Also, antler takes the most incredible level of detail and is easily worked with standard wood carving gouges as well as scrapers. 😉
  22. Still progressing my replica crossbow, should have all the inlays shown in the photo installed this holiday (the upper 8 are in now), just got to source a large fallow antler palm to carve the last two inlays from , make a string, finish testing the bow, cover it and paint it, and wait for the blacksmith to get some down-time after the Christmas rush, then fine carve all the inlays, make and install the twiddly horn inlays, sand, and varnish the stock and then apply the decorative paint effects . Hope to be all done by Easter. 😁 Oh, also got to build a crossbow table and make and fletch a set of bolts.
  23. Keep monitoring the weight of the piece - if the weight is stable then it has lost all its moisture and should not crack any more. A coat of wax should seal the surface and slow down any moisture loss if it is still 'wet'. Wax is easily removed with white spirits.
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