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Patrick Hastings

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About Patrick Hastings

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  1. If you have access to a Hot press with controllable pressure then you can go the high tech route. Pressure is not as critical as temp when you go this way. In the high tech way (Solid phase Diffusion bonding) Pressure is there to ensure that the surfaces of each layer make full contact with each other so the grains can grow together across the weld zone uniformly across the entire billet. These alloys are soft and get softer when they are hot. They do not provide much resistance to pressure while hot. So unless you want to squish the billet right off keep the pressure low. You can start out with enough pressure to squeeze the layers then you can tighten the stack when it has reached temp I would only apply enough pressure to reduce its thickness say 5 percent while its hot. That will make sure that the stack is making full contact through out the initial firing. In Dans preferred method (liquid phase fusion) timing is very critical because you are generally going above the possible eutectic temps. In the high tech approach where you can control your temp accurately over a prolonged period you can work just below the Eutectic eliminating the risk of melt down altogether. This method requires longer firing times sometimes 8 hours or more at temp. Either method works fine. Solid state diffusion bonding is more finicky if ask me, but Liquid phase bonding is more touchy and requires a practiced eye to get the timing right. Eutectic temps are derived from Phase Diagrams. When alloying two or more metals the alloy generally melts at a lower temperature than either of the parent metals. This lowest point can be looked up for any combination of elements present in your alloys. Find the lowest possible melting point combination out of the elements present and that is the temperature you have to stay under to prevent meltdown of the parent alloys when using solid state diffusion bonding. Put Silver and copper sheet together and heat to 800C the two sheets will combine into a mushy semi liquid mess. This temp is well below the melting point of silver or copper. Pure silver melts at 961C. Copper melts at 1084C The eutectic for the two metals is 779.C If you fused these two metals at 750C there is no risk of melt down even if left at temp for days. If you go above the Eutectic temp then time becomes very important and the heat must be removed the moment the billet begins to sweat. This is when the Eutectic alloy is forming between the sheets. Wait a moment too long and enough Eutectic forms to actually run out of the billet as a liquid. Phase diagrams can be found here and there on the net. Binary ones are common, but tertiary diagrams are harder to find. If you have access to a phase diagram book then you can look it all up yourself (expensive book). You don't really need them as you can find all of the information you need already published in Mokume gane books (inexpensive books). Precious Alloys, combinations, times, and temps. Its all published and waiting. (Edited to add, sorry that is not all beginer stuff, but you sound quite advanced with your queations and no one else cares about Eutectics so I thought I would throw that out there ) patrick
  2. Hi Chuck, Jasper is a high silica mineral with properties like glass. It is not the same as slate. Slate can be primarily silica, but it is put together differently than Jasper, Quartz, Chalcedony, agate, Flint and so on. These minerals lack the chalky abrasiveness of Slate. It is this fine chalkiness that grinds the ink so finely. Slate can be made of a large variety of minerals including Silica. Any mineral that nature could turn into sediment had the potential to become slate if the right geological processes happened. The stones unique and excellent ink stone properties come from the way the crystalline particles are randomly aligned and pressed together until they bonded in the earths crust. This forms a hard stone with a particular abrasive quality that can't be found in Jasper. Look for a very dense fine grained Slate. I am not saying you could not make an ink stone from Jasper, but I don't think if would work very well as it lacks the aforementioned qualities.
  3. Hi Donn, I have never carved jade, but I am an avid Rock Hound and crystal collector that lives in California. I have a handful of California Jade specimens some from the Sierra Nevada mountains and some from the north coast beaches. How do you determine the quality of the "felt"? do you have to work the material? Thank you, Patrick
  4. I have not made any yet, but I will share my progress when I get some hair. I have some thoughts for process that might make it too easy Patrick
  5. I was considering getting my own from Japan through contacts, but I use these so much and they are so expensive I decided to go ahead and make them. I think I can get the hair for free, but even buying it, the brushes can be less than a $1 a piece. It will be nice to control the brush size and stiffness regardless. I will post pic my home made brushes of course Thanks though to Jim for the public offer. Patrick
  6. I have a Presto actually it is the GRS 850. It is the same unit, but the GRS label made me pay too much for the tool. Any how the unit performs great. I have been using it for 5 or 6 years now without any maintenance. It does have enough torque to work metal, but its performance in soft gummy metals like copper is very slow. It actually works fairly well on steel. I don't use it much any more, but I would miss it if it was gone. I would recommend the Presto if your looking for a turbine with more torque. Patrick
  7. The eye stalks are going to have to be constructed with a telescopeing tubes patrick
  8. I have an aunt who dabbles in gourd carving she has a turbo carver. It is nice on gourds almost useless on metal. It has an extremely high speed and extremely low torque. Can't say much about its performance in wood as that is not my medium. It is inexpensive and easy to repair, but personally I can't find any use for so little torque. They say it will carve a chicken egg without chipping or cracking it. Patrick
  9. Thank Karl for that one. I don't have the time it must take to find all this stuff Karl finds. He must search the internet 20 hours out of the day. Patrick
  10. Just a quick post while the generator is cooling off my fridge. Having a blizzard here and no power. Perhaps tradesman like plumbers are not that great of an example. Besides the reasons that Ric stated they also have fairly high over head compared to a person with some lights and a handful of chisels working in there garage. Some of us obviously have more overhead than others, but carving can certainly have low entry cost. I like to look at Professional engravers as an example, because that is fairly close to what I do (Japanese style Engraving/carving) In the US Engravers are fairly common get between $50-$150 an hour depending on the skill and type of work being done. They generally charge by the hour rather than an art value at least for commissions. When I am under pricing myself which I do all the time, I remind myself of those rates and that my process and product is even more specialized. Ric is also right in that the lack of quality in ones work poses no limit on how much you can charge or how much you can sell. There is a dark side to any industry where people who barely qualify as a craftsman are great business persons. Marketing, Hype, and presentation make there low quality wares quite profitable. I am often tempted to go for the mass production as there is more money in it. It looks inviting when you can't afford food, but at all other times I find it repulsive and would never be satisfied with that approach. Patrick
  11. I know three people that have Machines like this. Three dimensional mills that use a pattern to guide the mill head. They can change the scale without electronics. I have only seen one of them run. They are all fairly old and basicallly retired, the machines that is but all still work. I personnally am interested in a CNC conversion setup for tooling and machine work for various hobbies of mine. I want to build all sort of machines. You can get a some nice mill set ups with high resolutions stepper motors, complete with computer and software for $10-12K these days. Shop Task has an interesting machine for the hobbiest. It is made in china, but the customer support is american and unsurpassed. Their machines are in so much demand that they will buy them back even years later for original purchase value less shipping (assumeing they are in good shape). Haveing the lathe built in saves space if you are lacking. Good hobbiest tools. I think I could do a lot with one and the prices are not bad at all. I ramble on. Patrick
  12. My connection is not good lately or I would look this up myself, but try looking up Patents for the lathe. You can generally get detailed mechanical drawings of such devices. Regards, Patrick
  13. Those pages are lovely, but better to simplify than have nothing at all. Get something up that works add to and improve later. Have you considered a Blog format? They are very easy to work and update yourself at lease for a begining or temporary way to have your own space. As you know I work on my own pages. Very basic as far as websites go. My Front page program ceased to work properly with my server so I switched to dreamweaver and started my website from scratch. The Learning curve is steep, but not impossible. I don't want to rely on anyone else nor do I like delays when I want to update. So I am stuck with what I can learn. I did take the time to learn about Spry tools and was able to make a more streamlined menu system with layers. It gave me a big headache initially as I had to go into code that I knew nothing about, but I am happy with the results so far. Nice pages though, really. It is a shame that the project could not get past the incompetents. all best, Patrick
  14. Hi Karl your links have been very useful lately. I was just about to purchase the Japanese legends book you posted. Now I have a free copy! Mr Toshi is within driving distance of me and I would really like to get ahold of him and introduce myself. I can't find any form of contact on his Blog. Does anyone know how to get a hold of this guy or did I just miss it? Thanks again, Patrick
  15. These are solid tungsten carbide burs, no diamonds. patrick
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