Sword fittings - attempt at linlay cheating

[Glen Drane]

Hello,

 

I'm new here, but I would like to say that my new sword fittings are because of this forum. Before I even joined, this site was the only place I could find information on Patinating steel and because of this I decided to join and hope to gain knowledge from the experience of the members. As a new member I thought I should contribute to the forum, but as my knowledge is limited my first contribution is because of this forum and what I have learned from its members.

The fittings here have been carved out from steel using a die grinder and then filled using bronze welding wire (cheating I know but it seemed easier than wire inlay), the patination formula was from this site to turn the steel rusty, I will then boil the fittings in green tee to turn them black after about 1 week. They may be primative to most members here but it's a start and I appreciate the fact that you all gave me the info to do it.

 

Thanks to all for their contribution to this forum as it has helped me no end.

The Gold bits are the inlays, the silver'steel sections are just steel that has not yet been affected by the solution.

 

These pics are only one hour after the solution has been applied, The Fuchi has been carved to flow into the Tsuba inlay, hence the gaps in the centre of the tsuba as the fuchi's body will cover this area.

 

Regards Glen,

 

[Mike Ruslander]

Very interesting results, Glen. I like the colors that you achieved.

Here's a quick, fun way to get an interesting patina in carbon steel. Try heating you piece with a blow torch and spray with WD-40 after removing the flame. Cool and repeat. Experiment, You should see nice deep blues and some pinkish hues. Be sure to coat the piece to keep it from rusting later, since high carbon steel can rust very easily.

[Glen Drane]

Very interesting results, Glen. I like the colors that you achieved.

Here's a quick, fun way to get an interesting patina in carbon steel. Try heating you piece with a blow torch and spray with WD-40 after removing the flame. Cool and repeat. Experiment, You should see nice deep blues and some pinkish hues. Be sure to coat the piece to keep it from rusting later, since high carbon steel can rust very easily.

 

Thanks Mike,

 

To be honest this is only the start of the effect I am after. Once the solution is applied twice daily for 5-7 days the pieces should be very rusty. They will then be boiled in Green Tea to deactivate the rust and turn the fittings black. The inlay should polish up without effecting the black Patina.

 

Thats the plan anyway. Sould look just like Japanese antiques. I'll keep you posted.

 

Cheers Glen.

[wunderlich]

Hi Glen,

welcome to The Carving Path!

 

Why do you think you`re cheating. A quite similar technique of inlay is called Sawari Zogan in Japanese. They use a high-tin bronze alloy to be melted into grooves like champleve enamel.

But with your steel it might be a good idea to make test pieces just trying differend finishes of the metals surface and variations of patinating solutions. This could save some time. And it is maybe better to polish the inlay before you about to patinate your tsuba.

regards

Karl

[Glen Drane]

Hi Glen,

welcome to The Carving Path!

 

Why do you think you`re cheating. A quite similar technique of inlay is called Sawari Zogan in Japanese. They use a high-tin bronze alloy to be melted into grooves like champleve enamel.

But with your steel it might be a good idea to make test pieces just trying differend finishes of the metals surface and variations of patinating solutions. This could save some time. And it is maybe better to polish the inlay before you about to patinate your tsuba.

regards

Karl

 

Thanks Wunderlich,

 

Nice to know I'm not cheating. Too late for the polishing but I did sand it with 320free cut. A far cry from polishing but I guess I can only see what happens.

 

Thanks for the support.

 

Cheers Glen.

[jim moyer]

Glen, you can save yourself a lot of headache with Iron and Steel patinas. Here is a link to a good supplier of kits for iron and steel. I use these for various effects on my sculpts and knive fittings.

 

I use a light green patina on my bronze steel fittings. This patina turns the steel to a rust and when I apply their clear wax the rust looks just like copper. The wax is UV resitant and dries hard in 24 hours so future rusting and ware is not a problem. I also use a variety of these patinas on my Damascus blades and fittings.

 

Just give them a call with your needs and they can lead you down the right path.

 

http://www.sculptnouveau.com/kits.html

[David Broadwell]

Thanks for posting that link, Jim. It gave me some ideas.

 

David

[jim moyer]

Your welcome David. Just checked your site and the patinas are great for Damascus work. Nice knives by the way. If you are using the 1084 and 15N20 you can get some nice results by layering the acids after the etch. These folks are real helpful and send great instructional tips in the kits along with those on their site.

[Glen Drane]

Thanks Jim,

 

I will look into your link. Sound good mate. Muchly appreciated.

 

Regards Glen.