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Wedding Rings


Patrick Hastings

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Here is my latest project. A pair of wedding rings for myself and Girlfriend Joya. I am going to give her the solitare on Xmas day and ask for her hand. She doesn't surf the forums so no risk of giving away the suprise, but I am bursting to show and tell.

The Rings are made from 14k white gold and sterling silver Mokume Gane. I purchased the stock already fused from reactive metal studios. It comes in a striaght grained bar with no pattern development. I twisted and carved the stock to develop the pattern then drew it out with hand hammer to the proper size and length. The Stone is bezel set in a bezel I made from the same stock. The setting is soldered into the band so there is a joint on either side of the setting only and no seams in the shank. Once the stone was set and the polish done I etched the rings in a dilute nitric acid. This removes the silver but not the gold leaving a raised grain effect. The interior of the setting and band were masked from etching. After that I polished the piece useing Japanese polishing brushes with silicon-carbide then charcoal powder. The Silicon softens the grain slightly so the layers are not sharp. Then the polish is brought back up with the powdered charcoal over all. The effect is pretty nice. I made four prototypes out of less expensive mokume to get some practice in on pattern development and to make efficient use of more expensive stuff. I started with a .25"x2" piece and made both rings from that. It worked out almost precisely. I have about a matchheads worth left :lol: The diamond is an old cut that belonged to my grandmother. It is probably in excess of a hundred years old ( since its been cut anyhow) it has nice color and give good sparkle.

Wish me luck.

post-40-1134954011.jpg

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This is really great work Patrick!

Beautiful rings.

 

A month or so ago I was looking for some mokume wedding bands too, and seeing as I neither bash metal or could afford the mokume rings available I decided to go without wedding bands altogether. Did I mention I got married last month? :lol:

It's fun Patrick ;)

 

Good luck mate,

-t

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Beautiful rings and nice story!

We with my wife will keep our fingers crossed; good luck! ;)

 

PS. My wife wish on similar rings, but I must to say to her that I can carve rings only from wood! :lol:

_____________________________________________

 

Toscano, our congratulations and for you! Good luck mate! :)

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Here is my latest project. A pair of wedding rings for myself and Girlfriend Joya. I am going to give her the solitare on Xmas day and ask for her hand. She doesn't surf the forums so no risk of giving away the suprise, but I am bursting to show and tell.

  The Rings are made from 14k white gold and sterling silver Mokume Gane. I purchased the stock already fused from reactive metal studios. It comes in a striaght grained bar with no pattern development. I twisted and carved the stock to develop the pattern then drew it out with hand hammer to the proper size and length. The Stone is bezel set in a bezel I made from the same stock. The setting is soldered into the band so there is a joint on either side of the setting only and no seams in the shank. Once the stone was set and the polish done I etched the rings in a dilute nitric acid. This removes the silver but not the gold leaving a raised grain effect. The interior of the setting and band were masked from etching. After that I polished the piece useing Japanese polishing brushes with silicon-carbide then charcoal powder. The Silicon softens the grain slightly so the layers are not sharp. Then the polish is brought back up with the powdered charcoal over all. The effect is pretty nice. I made four prototypes out of less expensive mokume to get some practice in on pattern development and to make efficient use of more expensive stuff. I started with a .25"x2" piece and made both rings from that. It worked out almost precisely. I have about a matchheads worth left :D  The diamond is an old cut that belonged to my grandmother. It is probably in excess of a hundred years old ( since its been cut anyhow) it has nice color and give good sparkle.

    Wish me luck.

 

Hello Patrick,

 

That sure is a beautiful piece of work, congratualaions!, and I wish you the best of luck, and I'm sure she will love it.

 

I just wandered what type of solder and torch system did you use to solder the bezel to the shank, and what was your mokume consist of? Copper, white gold and silver maybe?

 

Best regards,

 

 

dagistanli

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This is really great work Patrick!

Beautiful rings.

 

A month or so ago I was looking for some mokume wedding bands too, and seeing as I neither bash metal or could afford the mokume rings available I decided to go without wedding bands altogether. Did I mention I got married last month?  :D

It's fun Patrick  :D

 

Good luck mate,

-t

 

 

Congratulatioons Toscano. I wish you and your husband together a life to come true just as you have both always dreamed of.

 

Best regards,

 

dagistanli

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Hello Patrick,

 

That sure is a beautiful piece of work, congratualaions!, and I wish you the best of luck, and I'm sure she will love it.

 

I just wandered what type of solder and torch system did you use to solder the bezel to the shank, and what was your mokume consist of? Copper, white gold and silver maybe?

 

Best regards,

dagistanli

 

It does say in the intitial post, but its made of palladium white gold and Sterling silver. Both wearable metals for myself and Joya. I would never wear a ring with copper layers in it. The Solder is color matched white gold 14k Easy. The Torch is an air propane system. I used a one inch diameter bell tip for a big gentle flame. Twisted mokume has a tendancy to twist when you heat it. Its abit annoying when you are trying to line up details perfectly.

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Patrick,

Is there a seam in the wedding band? And is it done so the grain matches on the two sides?

 

-t

 

The solitare has a seam on either side of the setting and my band has a single seam. The pattern on mine matches up fairly well, but there is a stripe of white gold defineing the joint area.

patrick

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Patrick,    this is getting into something i understand. why wouldn't you wear a ring which had copper in the layers? your last sentence is a little confusing, did you mean the twisted ring blank will twist or untwist when heated?

 

Sorry for the confusion. Bare copper turns my finger green. Any time I have made jewelry from say Nickelsilver/copper mokume it turns the wearer green where ever it makes contact with the skin. This is not something I am prepared to deal with or work around on a daily wear piece. Personally I think it is most elegant to just make everything from skin compatible metals. coatings and liners just feel abit tense to me so if one can do it without them I am for that.

I gave the mokume stock three 360 twists, so the mokume is twisted. When you heat this mokume it warps I believe from the different coeficients of expansion from layer to layer. Even with a nice even heat the rings both wanted to open at the joint and offset at the same time. I did not pay attention to which way it twisted during the warp, but I did anneal them prior to joining so residual stresses were at minimum save for correcting for the offset induced by annealing :D It was particulary annoying. My Prototypes did not do this because the alloys in it were very similar in this way. So it was abit nerve wracking to see it happen on the real deals after so much careful prep.

Patrick

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Patrick,

Is there a seam in the wedding band? And is it done so the grain matches on the two sides?

 

-t

 

Here is a shot of the joint on my band. You can see the pattern matches up fairly well, but the joint is not as tight as I could have been do to the mentioned warpage during soldering. I corrected the warp mid soldering rather than trying to reprep and losing ring diameter. So I called it good and left it alone.

patrick

post-40-1135157544.jpg

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i've really haven't had problems with copper in mokume turning people black or green. maybe one in a thousand or more and it's usually an enviromental reaction than a personal one. as far as the twisting problem you had, it sounds as if you didn't anneal quite right. the annealing temperature for the white gold is quite a bit above the melting temperature of silver and it also makes a difference at what stage you quench.

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i've really haven't had problems with copper in mokume turning people black or green. maybe one in a thousand or more and it's usually an enviromental reaction than a personal one.  as far as the twisting problem you had, it sounds as if you didn't anneal quite right. the annealing temperature for the white gold is quite a bit above the melting temperature of silver and it also makes a difference at what stage you quench.

 

 

 

You are right about the anneal, but the combination will only allow so much heat so the anneal is as good as it gets with that combination. That is probably the source of the warp. Its not that big of a deal It just caught me off guard. The test pieces were Copper Shakudo and a low silver shibuichi. They anneal quite well together.

I think you missed my point on the copper. The people involved with wearing these rings myself and Joya will turn green if exposed to copper thats a fact. So copper is never considered for my own jewelry. Please feel free to make and wear it yourself. I rarely make jewelry let alone mokume jewelry. if you know some people that can wear copper I have four size 7ish mokume rings for sale hehe.

hehe

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