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Hello you all,


So I just started a new carving in boxwood.

I have to tell that I like to use a dremel, but I really love to use just a nife and some chisels as well!!!

Only thing is, when I use a nife on boxwood it's really easy to slip!

So you guess I have done some nice carvings on my hand as well.


Now I would like to know, am I doing it wrong???

And is there any way to protect my hands for slipping?

I think a glove could be the answer but I guess it thakes away the feeling for the carving as well...


Anybody some experions or am I the only one carving my hands as well.


Ok ok there is one positive site with this... the problem off how to color wood is solved!!!!

But maybe after a will having only red carvings gets a bit boring right!!!!


Hope to get some nice tips!!!



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I hope that you heal quickly and learn new techniques! There are times when writing to newer carvers, "Keep your tools sharp, and cut away from your flesh!"


There is a big hint there. Look at your tool position and your holding position, and guess which way the tools are going to go when you put pressure on the tool to cut the wood. Some carvers will hold their carvings in their hands, with out a backing of wood to support the wood. Others, myself included, will use a peg to rest the carving against, and then cut, scrape or carve what ever the wood removal motion. I enhance the peg with a poster mounting putty, white in color, used for putting pieces of paper up on walls. It is tacky enough to keep the carving from slipping, firm enough to press against, and soft enough to not harm the details as they are carved.


Change your technique, learn a safer way to use the tools and aim the blades away from your flesh with every stroke! It is possible.


Do any members have images of hands in the process of carving?


Here is one of mine:



Keep your tools sharp and cut away from your flesh!

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"Keep your tools sharp, and cut away from your flesh!"


Janel's quote is excellent advise, Bart. Dull knives, chisels, and other cutting tools will get you hurt. Lots of people cut themselves in the kitchen because they think having dull knives are safer. Besides, sharp tools are a pleasure to work with, whether carving wood or a turkey!


I use rotary tools on my knives and writing instruments. If you are using some type of burr it works better if sharp. When "hogging" off excess material and you don't necessarily need a burr with a specific shape you can re-sharpen dull or broken burrs. Grind the end so it looks like a screwdriver. They are very agressive.


When I need some protection for my hands I wear gloves. My wife found some at a Lowes lumber store that fit snuggly to my hands like my good motorcycle riding gloves. The have a velcro closure at the wrist. In the palm and finger areas they have either vinyl or leather pads for grip. They flex and move with my hands. I find I wear them for protection and just to help hold things more often than any sloppy fitting work gloves. They aren't armored, so you can pierce or slice them, but they will help. I prefer black and orange, Harley Davidson racing colors, but there are other colors.



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Thanx for the advice,

I use sharp tools and even sharpen them between carving.

Problem is probebly that I want to go to fast... just getting to excited I think. Would like to see a pic of the gloves David.

And any other tips will help as well.


Janel thanx for your pic, think that will just work great for me to!


cheers Bart

Ohhh and it's just a small cut (had wurst doh...)

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I wear somewhat thick leather gloves most of the time when using the rotary tool; on both hands now, since a rare occasion that the tool rolled quickly over a finger of the hand holding the hand piece (must have been bracing the finger on the wood being worked on), though I don't remember how anymore. A tool bit flying at 35,000 rpm is quick to injure, and I'd rather be working than recuperating. zzzzippp


Boxwood, and the other really hard carving woods and materials to not allow one to "carve" very quickly. Maybe if the wood is in a vice (eedddggeee I cannot imagine putting one of my pieces in one ;) ) and one was "sculpting" with mini chisel and mini mallet... the carving might go faster. I have not tried such maneuvers while carving. Patience, as in the wiserisim: "slow and steady wins the race". Enjoy the discovery process and watch the piece be a thousand pieces before it is completed.


My cedar 4x4 (four inch square timber) is screwed to the bench top from underneath the bench top, if that helps.

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  • 10 months later...

There are many different types of safety glove on the market..I have a couple myself but on a recent trip to see Peter Benson he showed me some new gloves which he picked up in the USA...


A large percentage of the characture carvers in the US use some form of glove...They tend to carve with the sharpest knives and tools...most of the gloves on the market are NOT STAB proof but a few ARE SLASH proof and it would take a lot of cuts to get through..I have seen this demonstrated.....


I only briefly looked at this new glove as the ones i use did the job just fine.....Pete is in the usa at the moment so ill email him and get some more info on the best types he's come across.....as soon as he returns the message I'll get typing...........


Merry Christmas to all................... :unsure: .Russ

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Not quite sure if im putting these replys in the right area,...please tell.........


Regarding the gloves Pete emailed me and the message reads.


""""The gloves you saw are the highest rated gloves for slashing and stabbing. They won't stop stabbing injury but minimise the damage. They are made from Dyneema and the ones I have are Ultrane which is the professional grade. Look for them on the Internet - there are several suppliers at different prices. The more you get the cheaper they are as you may not pay postage on a number. I am going to stock them so you could always use me as a supplier.

Hope this helps."""""


By the looks they are used by the glazing industry ...Any probs let me no





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