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getting back to moose horn. The spikes and the large piece that attaches to the skull, are solid material. Some of the spikes can be pure white and work like ivory. 1 - 2 in. across 6 - 7in long, great for beads and knife handles. etc. The pan, or flat part, is punky inside, but surface is hard 1/8 in or so. the pan is about 1/2 in thick, but can still be used for low relief. Material smells like Pine or whatever he brushed his horns against (nice) but sometimes like exhumed bodies. (anti-nice) I prefer to use dropped horn, as it doesnt get that last effect. if I knew how to add an attachment I would send a picture of my last horn. Elk horn (or deer) on the other hand. is punky in the middle, but surface is great. again, dropped horn is best. Killed animals still have nutrients in horn which tends to rot. It doesn`t go away and (like anything, this is not always the case, only sometimes) does really stink (it gets in your hands, etc. You will sometimes get same effect with Mammoth ivory) I don`t use either horn if they have been hanging outside for too long as they dry out, crack and generally get useless. Oh, I do go on. cooch

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Having worked antler for over 30 years I think one should know a few things about it,

First is the strongest antler is from an animal that has been slain..

It is less porous,it becomes porous so it can be shed..

There are so many factors in determining antler shape, size and consistancy..

If he is of breeding age is a factor, how much food is available is also a factor..

I prefer to work shed horn for philisophical reasons rather than practical ..

And the age of the material should not matter if it has been stored properly..

I oil all my antler with mineral oil, before storing and once a year go over the material with mineral oil,

I think organic material cracks from cells drying out, I like the old timers line of

Oil once a week for a month,

once a month for a year

And once a year there after.

And the bad smell one get's from working antler, usualy comes from overheating..

Hope this helps.

As for the Simba stag, I've never had the chance to work with it..


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Guest DFogg

I heard a new one from Harald Sellevold, a Norwegian knifemaker, Vaseline Intensive Care Hand and Nail lotion.


He rubs it into his mammoth ivory and horn handles and has had very good results. I know all those products are mineral oils


The method I was taught was to immerse in mineral oil and set in a double boiler let it warm up for deeper penetration. I keep rubbing it with oil until it leaves my care and then with a note attached reminding them to rub with oil frequently.

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